• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)

TR2/3/3A tr3 solenoid to the starter

Share this page

S

sp53

Yoda
Offline
Hi I am back to my do as original look and cannot find a picture of how the wire goes from the solenoid to the starter. It might just float to the left of the choke cable, but I do not know. I ordered a new one Moss and was disappointed because the wire was generic and would work on multiple cars. Their wirer is perhaps 25 inches long where as the original from what I can tell is 19. Anyways any wisdom on this is much appreciated.
Steve
 
I won't swear it's correct, but my starter cable comes off the solenoid going to the right, so it passes to the right of the choke cable, and is held by a tab on the body shelf along with the main harness.

On the choke cable, did you get the "original type" 734-015 or the "replacement" 331-080?

Personally I like the "replacement" I got many years ago better than the stock cable. Doesn't take the original knob, but with a little careful sanding, the fixed knob is almost the right profile. And I really like the locking feature that will lock in any position rather than just at a few discrete steps. I did have to replace the little metal piece that does the locking when I moved it from the wrecked 3A to the 'new' TR3, but just the fact it's still working some 25 years after I bought it is impressive to me.

If it's too long, then I would definitely suggest cutting it to the right length. A Dremel moto-tool with an abrasive cutoff blade works well.
https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/dub/dub353.htm

Pull the inner cable back while you cut the outer cable, and trim away any burr. Then wrap some masking tape tightly around the inner cable, and cut through the tape. As always, be sure to wear eye protection.
 
Her is mine on my 1958 TR3A.
 

Attachments

  • 21232.jpg
    21232.jpg
    90.9 KB · Views: 369
And further down you can see the black cable and how it goes between the inner fender near the wiring harness and outside the horizontal choke link rod. If you follow it down, you can see it attached to the end of the starter.
 

Attachments

  • 21233.jpg
    21233.jpg
    31.3 KB · Views: 373
Here's a snippet from Fig 27, Practical Hints 5th ed, showing what I believe is the starter cable clamped under that tab I was talking about. Leaving it to rub on the choke linkage as Don's photo appears to show strikes me as a bad idea.
 
I don't know how the original was routed, but I routed it to keep clear of everything. I don't know exactly how long it is, but it is closer to 25" then 19"...plus, it's in shocking red! :laugh:

Edit: And no, the solenoid is not original. The new one I bought from Moss kept sticking and kept the starter running! I got my money back and installed a $10 Ford relay from NAPA.
 

Attachments

  • 21238.jpg
    21238.jpg
    47.9 KB · Views: 343
Thanks all for your help and I think there is a small hole in the inner fender for something that might hold the wire down, but it could be an after drill. You are right Art I misguided myself with the 19 inch idea it does look more like 25. I actually got frustrated with the 19 I bought from the local parts store because of the large ends that might arch out or twist down on the body and I ended up using the Moss wire. The Moss wire does have a couple of rubber protectors on the ends and I do not know if tr3 ever had that, but I did see in Bills book an early 3 or 2 had something on the end, but I do not know. Thanks for the heads up on the choke cable Randall and Nice pictures Don

Steve
 
Back
Top