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TR2/3/3A TR3 Soft top questions???

JSpears

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I have 1960 TR3 with a hard top. I would like to put the soft top on. I have the top bracket and the soft top, but not the hardware to apply to the car. What bolts are required to attach the roof bracket to the vehicle? Also, the roof bracket have strips of cloth that control the opening distance. My strips are torn. What are the length of the strips so I can replace them. Thanks, Jim
 
Assuming you are talking about item 20 in the diagram below, those are 1/4-28 flat head bolts, 3/4" long with pointed tips. The pointed tips aren't absolutely necessary, but do make it easier to get them started into the nut plate inside the body shell.
 

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On the webbing, there is enough variation from car to car and top to top that it might be a good idea to trial fit your top and choose the lengths that make it fit best. However, here is an old diagram (supplied by Geo Hahn).
 

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You can get a roll of the strip material from the usual suspects. The roll is longer than is needed. I install the strips to the front hood stick and leave the strips long with the excess at the back. Then, after I adjust the length between each hood stick so that they align with the seams on the hood, I cut the excess off.
 
Total length of webbing strip each side is 36" plus a double fold where it attaches to the back of the cockpit.

On mine, first section is 18.25" to the rear bow, then 6" to the next, then 11.75" to the front bow.

Each car may be slightly different, depending on who made the soft top.

It's best to fit the first section of webbing to the rearmost bow, then fit the soft top to check the web spacing for the next two bows.

Hoodbows to body fixing screws are 4 off 1/4" UNF thread x 3/4" long with countersunk head and a plain screwdriver slot.

Hope that helps,

Viv.
 
Note that the top tends to expand and shrink with the weather; so it's best to install it in warm weather, maybe even let it lay in the sun for awhile so the vinyl gets nice and soft.

But if it fits snugly when warm (as it should), it can be hard to install when it's cold. One old-timer's trick is to leave the rearmost bow loose from the webbing.

Then to put the top up, you can pull the front bows forward, but leave the rear bow folded against the main bow, and the doglegs (item 4 above) folded back. That makes it trivial to fasten the top to all the snaps (the Tenax snaps are a bit fragile, so it's best not to force them onto the studs). Then you can straighten out the doglegs and install the sidecurtains. Once you are sitting in the car, push the rear bow back until the top is tight. It will stay where you put it (from friction against the top), but you may have to push it back several more times as the top loosens up.
 
TR3driver said:
One old-timer's trick is to leave the rearmost bow loose from the webbing.

Once you are sitting in the car, push the rear bow back until the top is tight. It will stay where you put it (from friction against the top), but you may have to push it back several more times as the top loosens up.

That is exactly how my 1971 MGB top worked. Not sure if it was by design or the previous owner did it that way, but I left it in place when I replaced the top. My top was quite tight and looked very good once you moved the back bar into place.
 
Jim, I hope you don't mind a related question on your thread, but I'm looking for the cushioning material that is glued to the bows and acts as a buffer between them and the top. I thought that the members following this thread would probably know what it is and/or where I can get it. Thanks, Barry
 
I believe the original material was wool felt, which is available from https://www.mcmaster.com/#wool-felt/=7mvj95

Unfortunately I have no idea offhand what grade/thickness would be appropriate, perhaps someone else does.
 
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