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TR2/3/3A TR3 Silent block

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A

Adrio

Jedi Knight
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Having just finished rebuilding my steering box I found that with nothing connected to the drop arm the steering wheel turned with ease and just a slight resistance at the straight ahead position just like the book says it should be once adjusted.

However when I attached the centre link and connected the tie rods to the two tie rod levers I found the resistance to turn the steering wheel went up a fair bit (the car is still on jack stands). I am suspecting the silent blocks in the centre link.

I recall some talk about Derlin versions of these silent blocks, but I can't seem to find any. Has anyone used them, what was the result and where can I buy them?

I don't want to have gone through this in care steering box rebuild to get rid of my play and still have a hard to turn steering in the car. I may as well do it right while I am there (thanks to a member of the forum for reminding me of this).
 
The stock Silentblocs do add some resistance, because the rubber has to deform to turn. TRF has the Delrin versions (HP301), which I've not tried yet. But I installed the brass/SS versions available from BFE (before the Delrin ones were on the market) and was very happy with them. The Delrin ones should work just as well.
 
Joe Alexander at ARE make them for TRF. I'm sure they would be cheaper from Joe himself. I tried a quick look for his site but I did not find it but I'm sure he is still out there. I have them on my car but it is not on the road yet. Very easy install.

A.R.E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
 
He's out there. Google Alexander Racing Enterprises. He also is the man on ebay. Nice guy too.

Randy
 
Here are some pix, as to what they look like:
IMG_0941-1.jpg

IMG_0939.jpg
 
Aloha Adrio,

I have installed the derlin replacement silent bloc bushing in my TR3A and they are very easy to install. The difficult part of the job maybe removing the old silent-bloc bushing. After year on being in place, they are reluctant to leave. I would suggest you use a little grease on the metal pins during assembly to prevent squeaking and corrosion and some paint on the top of the pin to prevent rust. These are a nice made upgrade to the original part and now you don't have be concerned about deflection in the steering from rubber parts or the eventual failure of the rubber bushing.

Another item that can add significant resistance to steering is the idler arm assembly. Make sure it is turning freely with little effort. If not, it is easy to remove and free up. Most likely cause of tightness is dried up grease blocking the flow of grease along the shaft.
 
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