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TR2/3/3A TR3 shake

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NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
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I'd posted earlier about a front end vibration and/or "bounciness" over 45mph on typical country roads. (1959 TR3A.) Many good suggestions followed. Haven't taken any action yet, as I'm still recovering from Lyme disease.

Yesterday I took my neighbor (an "old car mechanic") out for a drive to show him the problem.

No vibration at all.

On all the roads and speeds we tried, not a single shake, rattle, or roll (how's that for dating myself ..?).

Seems the problem completely disappears when there's 160 pounds in the passenger seat.

And on a new, smooth highway, not even any vibration or shaking *without* a passenger.

Other than always traveling with a 160 pound sack of potatoes, what do you think causes the problem? Or maybe it's just "normal" for a lightly-loaded (I'm 160 also) TR or a less-than-perfect surface?

Possibly related: lift front of car, grasp left front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock, slight (1/2") movement. No movement when grasped at noon and 6. No other wheels show this.

Thanks.
Tom
 
NutmegCT said:
I'd posted earlier about a front end vibration and/or "bounciness" over 45mph on typical country roads. (1959 TR3A.) Many good suggestions followed. Haven't taken any action yet, as I'm still recovering from Lyme disease.

Tom
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that - just now listening to "You Bet Your Garden" on NPR; Mike's talking about tick born diseases, especially Lyme. Hope yours wasn't too bad.

But regarding the vibration, that's a toughie. Not sure the left front wheel is connected, but you might check the bearing tightness and snug it up as needed. Shouldn't move that much, I would think.

Mickey
 
NutmegCT said:
Possibly related: lift front of car, grasp left front wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock, slight (1/2") movement. No movement when grasped at noon and 6.
Click to expand...
That's way too much. Your vibration is probably caused when something upsets the wheel at just the right speed/frequency, and it starts shimmying back and forth.

However, I disagree with Mickey. If it was a loose bearing, then you'd find the same play at 12 & 6. I think you've got a bad tie rod end, or the steering lever is coming loose from the vertical link. Since tie rod ends seem to last nearly forever on these cars, I'm guessing the latter is more likely.

Don't forget, those nyloc nuts are supposed to be replaced every time.
 
TR3driver said:
However, I disagree with Mickey. If it was a loose bearing, then you'd find the same play at 12 & 6. I think you've got a bad tie rod end, or the steering lever is coming loose from the vertical link. Since tie rod ends seem to last nearly forever on these cars, I'm guessing the latter is more likely.

Don't forget, those nyloc nuts are supposed to be replaced every time.
Click to expand...

Good catch, Randall - I was assuming play all round.
 
Have a buddy that went through Lyme disease last year. Was pretty rough on him - hope you're recovering well.
In addition to the play in the wheel causing the shimmy, is it possible this latest drive was taken with slightly lower tire pressures. I've got two old vehicles (one is the GT6) that don't like it if I run with slightly higher tire pressures, and I'm only talking a couple of pounds (2) making a difference.
 
Tom,

Do you have steel wheels? If so, that could be the cause of your problem as they are extremely difficult to get balanced and to find a set that is true.

I ended up switching to Panasports and that has made a world of difference. No vibration at any speed.

Paul
 
Thanks gents.

I switched from original steels to new wheels (15" Minilites) a couple years ago. That eliminated my front end shake for quite a while. I keep tires (Kumho 758) at 32psi.

As I've obviously driven more since then, I'm thinking of the tie rod as suggested, or worn steering box, or combination. With the tires on the ground, I watched the inner tie rod as I tried the 9pm-3pm test, and saw some movement there. Also saw a slight "give" in the steering shaft *above* the top spline connection. Column above top spline doesn't move, while the column from top spline down moves.

Hopefully none of this indicates imminent catastrophic failure ...

Thanks.
Tom
 
As a friend of mine would say, you've got the right to hope.

But I sure would plan on fixing sooner, rather than later! Especially that top spline joint if it isn't already so badly gone that you have to replace the shaft & coupling.
 
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