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TR2/3/3A TR3 seat redo

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fad64b

fad64b

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I am looking for some input on the subject of springs verses foam in the TR3 seats. I presently have seats that need to be reworked the DPO put foam in the bottom but it is not thick enough, uncomfortable, and does not even look like they belong in a TR3.. So the question is should I go with the reproduction springs, or find someone that can make a foam pads that resembles the size and shape of the original springs?
 
Tough call, but I'd go with the springs.
 
The original seats were a combination of Springs then burlap, horsehair and then thick cotton padding as I recall.

I ended up using foam wrapped in cotton batting that sits on the burlap topped original springs.

I think that TRF now has TR3 springs for sale.

You can cut or sculpt your own foam base with an electric knife by trial and fit method.

Better to cut off a little at a time and be patient.

Thanks.
1959 TR3A, 1972 TR6
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
I have the foam and it is definitely better than those old tired springs I had.

Perhaps either method can get you a good ride, I think the foam can be made a bit firmer than the springs but not everyone would like that. No way you can tell by just looking (w/o pulling the seat bottom) which is in there.
 
Geo Hahn said:
No way you can tell by just looking (w/o pulling the seat bottom) which is in there.
Click to expand...
Bet I can ! The original springs do not give an even firmness like foam; that big, hard wire around the perimeter gives the seat an "edge" that I can feel.
However, the repro springs I've tried don't feel right either, which is why I said it was a tough call.
 
I got some springs from a local re-upholstry shop and spiraled them in around all the broken springs. Then I took my vice grips and bent over the bottom end and looped each bottom spring end around the framework. It works great. During the first 80,350 miles from new, many of the original springs got broken. Since I did the repair in 1990, I've driven another 97,000 miles with the spiraled in springs and the seat cushions are still perfect. In fact I can drive 550 to 875 miles a day and the seats are not causing me any problems.

Don Elliott, Original Owner 1958 TR3A
 
Frank: we just recently got our seat spring sets from TRF after being on back order for over 2 years. They are very nice and from what I can tell are fairly faithful re-pros of the originals. They are not cheap, but there may not be another batch for "years". Also, foam is crappy at best. I recall having a conversation with Ken Richardson a few years before he passed away. During the Jabbeke speed runs he sat on the floor of the TR-2 to maintain a better aerodynamic profile. He said he took quite a punishment from the shock transferred from the TR-2, considering they had like 70 psi in the tires and all but a 2 inch band of tread had been cut away to reduce rolling friction. So give your body a favor and use springs not foam.

BUT, either way - good luck.
 
I put foam in mine that I purchased from a guy that sells seats and uphoslstery on ebay. The springs were bouncy and swayed back and forth. The foam is the correct type, density, and VERY comfortable in comparison, and is topped with a thin layer of cotton batting.

If springs were a better ride, they'd still be putting springs in new cars (but they don't). It's probably a totally subjective comparison but I REALLY like the foam. They are the correct height and shape and unless you sit on them, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference. And once you sit on them, it's OOOOOO AHHHHHHH comfortable. Mine are also heated for the late fall top down rides.
 
I only have my old spring seats for comparison but I've heard many drivers say the springs (in good condition) allow you to drive IN the seat rather than ON the seat. I guess an overstuffed foam seat would allow you to slide about on the surface.

The seats in TS74011L were old but still had ok support and I kinda liked the ride they gave.
 
Even with the heated seats, my fingers will still turn cold(actually turn white from Raynauds) from the cold with the heater on full blast with polar fleece jackets. Maybe I should be sitting on my hands while I drive /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

Raynauds - All my life I've used power tools, chain saws and other manly machines. A couple of years ago, I noticed the tips of a couple of fingers would turn white then go numb all of a sudden, brought on by cold. No problem in the warm season. Pretty weird feeling, I can can actually watch it happen then watch it clear up, freaks people out that witness it. https://raynauds.chicanes.net/potioncms/articlefiles/61-VWF.pdf
 
Existing springs, existing horse hair, existing cotton stuffing, burlap from Penncross Creeping Bentgrass seed bags, Brand new 100% cotton baby diapers, Moss leather covers. Actually like em better than the seats in a modern car.

Peter - Heated steering wheel cover and shifter knob next?
 
PeterK said:
Even with the heated seats, my fingers will still turn cold(actually turn white from Raynauds) from the cold
Click to expand...
FWIW, I looked for a long time for gloves that would keep my hands warm, but fit comfortably and not impede driving my TR3A in cold weather. Finally bought some motorcycle gloves with garish logos on them, and ripped the stitches out of the logos, leaving soft leather backing and Gore-Tex facings.

I also found that a leather jacket works much better when driving in the TR than "ski" jackets and such. Fleece and nylon simply don't stop the wind that robs your body heat, leather does.

Although I've gotten spoiled and soft by the mild climate where I live, I have shown up for a New Year's day event in a TR3A with no top, no heater, and temps well below freezing on the mountain. Biggest complaint was my toes being cold /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Brrrrr...

brrrr.JPG
 
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