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TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear Wing Bead

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mountainman

mountainman

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I am in the process of fitting all the body parts[fenders hood, trunk) on my 59 TR3 and boy what a PITA to get them all lined up and ready for paint. One real problem is the stone guards,rear fender and the bead to fit right. I can get the fender and stone guards pretty good but when I try all three the bead doesn't want to line up straight. It is supposed to go in there between the stone guard right? If anyone knows any little tricks on fitting all these panels I sure would appreciate someone letting me know. I am a real frustrated body man.
Thanks
Greg
 
The bead goes between the body and stone guard at that point. What I did was hang the fender on loosely with all the screws with the stone guard in place. Then I carefully slid in the tabs for the beading, starting from the back. You can snug a bolt here and there a bit to hold things in place as you go, even if the beading isn't seated all the way. This will help when you get to the front section. Work your way forward and down. With a bit of back and forth...loosening and tightening as you work the beading into position, it should go together OK.
 
Greg, here's a shot that might help:

IMG_1139.jpg
 
Just a thought, you might want to paint first and then install the beading & stone guards. Those hidden areas are prone to rust anyway, and the more paint the better.
 
Thank's anyone.
I agree Randall, I plan on just loosely hanging everything on like Art said with no bead or any trim and then painting, but I wanted to make sure it all fit good first. This part of my restoration is by far the toughest work I have encounted on the car. I hope it will be down hill from here. I want to have it back on the road this spring[May] so I can enjoy my two yrs+ of work. Wish me luck.
Thanks Again
Greg
 
Having a second pair of hands doesn't hurt either! Use the second pair to pull on the tabs from the bottom with a pair of vise grips while you snug each bolt up. Also...if you are installing NEW beading be SURE to remove the black plastic covering first!
Gordon
 
I bent them over - I installed them the same as how Art said and I found it helps to grab onto a tab with a pliers while you snug up the bolts - bending them I think keeps them from backing out.
 
The tabs for the beading will stay in place if you use a strip of duct tape to hold them where you want them. I want mine (and have them like this) just above each bolt hole so that when you tighten it all together, the tabs don't slide down to where you are trying to insert the bolt. Also this way it's close to the bolt for a secure "sandwich" and the bead will always lie tight and close to the body and the fender. After its painted and together for the final time - that is the time to bend the tab back on itself to avoid getting scratched by the corners of the tabs. I cut mine to the length so they lie flat with one bend back. Although I can remember back in 1987 when I took mine off, these tabs were bent as above but had up to 3 zig-zag folds to make them lie flat.
 
Thanks guys.

Now, one fender on, one still fighting me. A much bigger problem has come up - how to deal with a stripped cage nut on the rear fender...You can't get into the back side of it.... :( so....I'm thinking to use a #7 metric tap - it's about .030" larger than a 1/4". The 5/16" just looks too large - I worry I will destroy the cage nut with the 5/16" and then I'm in real trouble. I'm just not a big fan of heli coils.

Of course, a #7 tap is special order... enough for today, time to stop. grr.

Any other ideas?
 
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Replace the nut. Just pry open the side of the cage and take the nut out. The square is larger then a 1/4" square nut commonly available, so you'll have to most likely get one from either Moss (part #310-165), or TRF which I'm sure have them. Of course, it's a 50 cent item that will have extraordinary shipping charges attached. It's also fine threaded (1/4"-28), which is also not so common in a square nut.

I might have some spares around if you need.
 
I have never used this but perhaps it could get you out of a jam:

1YDZ5_AS01.JPG


It's not as if there is a great amount of torque involved.
 
Are you sure the nut is stripped, or is the cage allowing the nut to spin? Most of the ones I've had problems with were with the cage. If its in that rear apron area you might be able to use something like a rivet nut or weld nut if the retapping operation doesn't work.
 
Oh, you're talking about the nuts in the rear valance, not any nuts in the fender itself. I replaced several of those using some weld nuts from McMaster.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=mug6jl Tab Base, 1/4"-28, Part Number 90594A040

I drilled holes large enough for the weld nut to to go through where the original nuts are. Then I welded them on to the outside. Since the tab is thin, it won't push the fender out and it will fit fine. If you have all the paint done, you could consider pop riveting them on.

Also, McMaster sells them in a box of fifty. I know I have a bunch left if you want some.
 
martx-5 said:
Oh, you're talking about the nuts in the rear valance, not any nuts in the fender itself. I replaced several of those using some weld nuts from McMaster.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=mug6jl Tab Base, 1/4"-28, Part Number 90594A040

I drilled holes large enough for the weld nut to to go through where the original nuts are. Then I welded them on to the outside. Since the tab is thin, it won't push the fender out and it will fit fine. If you have all the paint done, you could consider pop riveting them on.

Also, McMaster sells them in a box of fifty. I know I have a bunch left if you want some.
Click to expand...

Hmm, interesting idea. I've never seen those before. Kind of like a heli coil in a way. Only 1/16" surface thickness of the tab - I like that. Yes, I'm painted. I'm also wondering if they could be epoxy glued? Yes, 50 is a pain. I will take you up on the offer. I'll send you a pm. Thanks.

Edit: Art - check your pm's. I decided to order a package myself from McMaster. Thanks anyway for the generous offer.
 
Geo Hahn said:
I have never used this but perhaps it could get you out of a jam:



It's not as if there is a great amount of torque involved.
Click to expand...

Hi George - this seems to have potential but fwiw it didn't get 100% positive reviews on Amazon. it scored a 3 out of 4...
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Form...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

I did do some more investigating into it and found a link to the data sheet, for those who may need it in future.
https://media.midwayusa.com/pdf/reference/loctite_stripped_threads.pdf

In my case I do have accessibility which allows me to use alternate methods that I think I will try first. But it's a good idea to keep in mind for possible other situations where other options may not be possible.

I'll post some pix when done. Thanks to all,
 
Just for future reference, McMaster also has the caged nuts in in 1/4"-28...they are on the same page I referenced earlier...
https://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=muxuv1 Part # 90955A113


On the McMaster nuts, the nut itself is captured into the cage, not loose like the originals...in most places on the TR, they will work better and easier. There are a few cages on the TR3 that allow the nut to float back and forth more then most to allow for more alignment, but I forget where they are located.

BTW, Macy's Garage sells these same weld nuts...Part # MCY151. Macy's also has a tutorial on how to weld and pop rivet them on. Because they are essentially one piece, you can hold them in place with a screw while you weld or pop rivet.

Tutorial...https://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/cage_nuts.htm
 
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