TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear Wheel Bearings

[JFS]

Although I have repaired, replaced, or maintained just about every other moving part on my 58 TR3A over the last 25 years, I have never serviced the rear wheel bearings. After seeing a 3 break one at Rockford last summer, I think I should probably check em out, although the wheels turn smoothly and quietly. I have a good 3-jawed puller and think it should work for pulling the hubs. Is a special puller needed to pull the bearings? Will the end float have to be checked after bearing repacking/replacement? Any precautions I should be aware of?

 

[Geo Hahn]

Good luck -- sometimes the puller gets that hub apart, sometimes it seems nothing short of a nuclear warhead will separate them.

I would not use a 3-jawed puller if it is the kind that fastens under the studs -- it will surely bend the studs and hub before getting it separated. At least spring for a 4th jaw for equal pull -- it may not work but the risk of damage is less.

I have never pulled the bearing, just cleaned and re-packed in situ and replaced the 2 seals (one on bearing, the other in the diff body). A small puller and seal driver will be helpful for those.

Yes, you will need to reset the end float which may require an assortment of shims (as well as a dial indicator gauge, etc).

Personally (on a car not being raced): if they are not leaking and not making noise I would grease 'em thru the zerk and leave well enough alone.

 

[trrdster2000]

Well said George, surprising how many owners don't know that fitting is there, not only the 3's but 4's and solid axle 4A's if my memory serves me correctly. The one on the Roadster is on the outside in a little recess, much easier, just take off the hubcap.
Wayne

 

[JFS]

Glad I posted! I didn't think of repacking them in situ nor did I know that all the 3's had grease zerks. I saw the zerks in my manuals but not on the car so I thought perhaps they discontinued the zerks after the manuals were printed. Geo, I'll take your advice and grease the zerks first (after I find them) since they're quiet and not leaking. I don't race, but I have autocrossed and driven it sportingly for 100,000 miles. Thanks, guys.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

Boy, do I agree with the other folks about not removing the rear hubs unless necessary!

This is not a fun job. Yours are most likely seriously affixed to the axles after all these years and would almost certainly require some major effort to remove. Even the special tool, which is hard to find and pricey, might not budge them. That means taking the axle/hub assembly to a machine shop, using a large press (probably 20 tons) on them to push the hub off, and hoping for good results.

In fact, it's all too common for hubs to get bent in this process, ruining them. It takes a lot of force to remove the hub from the end of the axle. So, avoid the job if at all possible.

Noisy bearings, or roughness when spinning the wheel, or any side play, would certainly indicate a problem. But I think the primary sign of a problem is grease/oil on the brake backing plate, leaking out of the hub, which will eventually get onto and ruin the brake shoes. This is due to the hub seal giving up, and I would guess is a more common problem than actual bad bearing, or at least an initial sign that the hubs need attention.

Yes, get in there and grease each hub with the zerks. I'd suggest not putting more than 5-6 pumps with the grease gun in each initially, to avoid over-filling, which might cause grease to ooze out past the old seals.

It might be possible to clean the hub bearings withoiut removing the hub from the axle, too, since the entire axle with the hub still mounted can be removed from the axle tube simply by removing the 6 bolts right behind the brake backing plate. With the hub and axle off the car, it would be pretty easy to wash out the bearings, let them dry and repack with new grease.

*But*, I wouldn't necessarily encourage doing this, either.

If the hub/axle assembly is removed, there are two more seals inside the ends of the axle tube that will very likely get damaged in the process and need replacement, too. Also, new locking washers will be needed for the six bolts per side. Plus there are shims used between the brake backing plate and end of the axle tube, to set the correct amount of axle end play and centralize the axles in the differential. If removing the axles, it helps to carefully count the shims and keep the two packs as separate sets for their respective sides, to reinstall exactly as they were removed. But, end play should still be checked (.004" if memory serves) and adjusted if excessive. Even giving the brake backing plates a fresh coat of paint can effect end play quite a bit.

So, all in all, I'd say don't tackle the job unless it's really necessary. Keep the hubs well lubed through the zerks, but not over-filled.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[JFS]

Thanks, Alan; I'll heed your advice.

 

[jsneddon]

[ QUOTE ]
surprising how many owners don't know that fitting is there, not only the 3's but 4's and solid axle 4A's if my memory serves me correctly.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yup.. I didn't know about it either. I'll put this one on the top of my list of things to do this weekend.

Here's the location and description in the TR3 owner's manual:

 

[Donald1107]

Just contemplating this very same issue. About everything else mechanical is done on my 3. Now I won’t tackle this project unless something clues me in to its necessity.

 

[Merlin63Tr4]

If all else fails, this guy makes some special TR tools.

Untitled document

M.

 

[CJD]

Fortunately, bearings don't often fail without ample warning. You will start to hear (and feel) a dull rumble if the rear bearings are failing. It will be constant while the car is in motion, even with the engine turned off and rolling in neutral. I bet the failure you saw at Rockford was an axle. Axles give no warning at all. If you have the Girling rear end, though, axle failures are also rare. Not so with the Lockheeds.

 

[DavidApp]

There is a drawing for a tool to separate the hub from the axle using a couple of nuts and a bolt all sourced from Granger or McMaster-Carr. Some welding is needed to complete the tool.

David

 

[mastaphixa]

I was able to use the above mentioned tool to remove my axles from the hubs with very little drama. I'd do it again in a heart beat.

 

[Andy Blackley]

Here is a link to the tool in question. I had one made last year and it worked a treat. My experience is at the end of that thread.

TR4/4A - A simple solution for separating axle and hub.

I have found a solution for separating the stubborn live axle rear hub and tapered axle shafts. I know most of us have wondered how to remove the stuck tapered hub after 50+ years without damage to the hub or axle. I've searched and looked into all the possibilities from machining a hub fixture...

www.britishcarforum.com

 

[BarryO]

Before you grease the real axles make sure to check that the drain hole isn't plugged with crap. I didn't know about this and when I greased
the axles i did too many pumps with the grease gun and it seeped out the passenger side hub seal and grease leaked onto the brake shoes, a hard stop really got my attention

I pulled out both my axles and had a Triumph mechanic put in the new hub seals for me since after reading up on it sounded like it might be difficult, you must have the right tools for this job. I did the rest of the work with new brakes shoes , all back together and float set and that's a job in itself. In the photo you can see the plugged hole at the 7 O'Cock position , make sure it cleaned out and follow the manual (5 pumps with the grease gun).