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TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear shaft removal

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RedTR3

RedTR3

Jedi Trainee
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Perhaps some of you remember my previous post about dealing with worn grease seals on the rear hubs of my TR3.

I have found a shop that can rebuild the half shafts (pressing off the hubs and renewing the bearing and seal). I want to remove the half shaft myself as it looks like a fairly straightforward job. I understand about saving the shims and setting the end float.

My question is in removing this shaft, does it just pull out fairly easily after the 6 bolts on the backing plate are out? I am not too clear on how this axle is attached at the differential end. From what I’ve read it slides right out but I am not assuming this….
Thanks!
 
[ QUOTE ]
My question is in removing this shaft, does it just pull out fairly easily after the 6 bolts on the backing plate are out? I am not too clear on how this axle is attached at the differential end. From what I’ve read it slides right out but I am not assuming this….Thanks!

[/ QUOTE ]

It slides right out.
 
Yup, slides right out. the pressed on bearing is what holds the axle where it needs to be, so the diff end is just straight splines.
6 bolts, the brake line and the e-brake cable and it should slide out.
 
I hope we didn't jinx Redtr3, Banjo!
 
Here's a possibly dumb question... Should one keep track of which side a half-axle was previously fitted to?

I have always done just one as needed but if removing both would it be preferable to get the splines back in on the side where they have been before?
 
Generally speaking if you've switched out one or both bearings, then you're starting from scratch. So it won't make any difference. Just start out with the shims you saved and follow the service manual. While it's always nice to match up mating surfaces, here it's just about an impossibility to return the axle spline to its former position in the differential gear.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
OK, thanks, another quick question if I may: As far as setting the end float, I see that this is pretty much a trial and error procedure. That is, assemble everything, check, disassemble, and refit different shims as necessary. I am pretty sure I will need to add/change shims since one side now seems to have no end float. Should all this assmebly/reassembly be done with the old oil seal (item 51 in Haynes illustration)? Then when the end float is determined to be correct, put everything back together in a final assembly with a new item 51? Seems like this would be better than dragging the axle in and out on the new seal.
 
Your suggestion with the seal makes sense.
Both axles must be in and fasteners tightened to get the correct end float reading. Don't attempt to set one side with the other axle out as it will give a read.
Once you do this once or twice you'll get a feel for the shim(s) required.
 
If you have no float on one side that needs definite attention. I'll assume you have a later axle and not an early 2/3 one. The zero float side means your pushing against the thrust block, which is in turn pushing against the cross pin that the pinion gears pivot on. Trouble is you don't know how hard it's pushing. Conceivably deforming something. Start adding shims to that side until you have have the desired float there too. Then figure out the total thickness of the two packs together and split the total between both sides, thereby centralizing the thrust block/differential pin in the differential assembly. Regarding the seals, I agree, leave them out until your done.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
Hello all,

Setting the end float on my 58 TR3 after having the bearings and seals replaced is making my head hurt. I started out with .031 shims on the driver side and .049 on the pass side.( total .080 the way it came to me) So, on my first go around I devided it by two and put .40 shims on both sides. Now I have .011 float on the drivers side and .004 on the pass side and I am not sure what to do next. (I did not check the float before taking everything apart) Any advice?

Thanks,

Barney
 
Great question Barney! I'm having the same problem with my '49 TR. Nothing in the manual about the float or shimming. Any reference material would be great.

Paul
 
Hi Barney:

Yeb ANY work on an LBC is enough to make my head spin. Tech data that I have indicated an end float of .004 to .006 and yes they should be equal on both sides as near as possible. When I did mine as I recall there was much trial, error and unkind words used.

Good Luck, Tinkerman
 
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