TR2/3/3A TR3 rear fender stone-guards

[fad64b]

Since my TR3 has no stone-guards installed I would like to install a set. Is this difficult? Does anyone have any hints and tips they would like to share before I order a set of these.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Not difficult to install if you can open your wing-to-body gap enough to slip them in there. Need about a 3/32" gap to accomodate the fastening lip on both guards plus the tabs for the wing bead.

Only necessary to undo the forward foot or two of the bead and carefully bring it forward to allow the guards to slip in.

I recently had to replace one side because of a parking lot curb mishap. I initially ordered from TRF but the shape of the small guard seemed unsuitable & likely to need tweaking to fit my car. Here is a side-by-side pic of the TRF small guard on the left and my old guard on the right (note the 'dip' along the front edge of the TRF guard):

They took them back no problem and I ended up getting them from Moss. My prior set (one side of which met the curb) was from Vicky Brit and they were similar to the Moss supplied parts but perhaps a bit shinier.

 

[YankeeTR]

Not difficult to install if you can open your wing-to-body gap enough to slip them in there. Need about a 3/32" gap to accomodate the fastening lip on both guards plus the tabs for the wing bead.

Only necessary to undo the forward foot or two of the bead and carefully bring it forward to allow the guards to slip in.

I recently had to replace one side because of a parking lot curb mishap. I initially ordered from TRF but the shape of the small guard seemed unsuitable & likely to need tweaking to fit my car. Here is a side-by-side pic of the TRF small guard on the left and my old guard on the right (note the 'dip' along the front edge of the TRF guard):

They took them back no problem and I ended up getting them from Moss. My prior set (one side of which met the curb) was from Vicky Brit and they were similar to the Moss supplied parts but perhaps a bit shinier.

George,

Do you have a front picture of each type? I wonder which set is the most like the originals...I know few guys here have had some problems getting the repops fitted.

I like the look of the car without the shields...you can use 3M chip guard or other products to accomplish the same thing.

 

[Geo Hahn]

No other pics... I just happened to have those 2 as I sent them to TRF when we were discussing the problem with the part.

Although I said 'Not difficult to install' there is usually some tweaking to get the large guard snug against the wing. But in my case the fit was close, the aluminum soft and so it went on fairly easily.

 

[Don Elliott]

You have to fit them. Loosen the bottom bolts for the rear fender and try to slide the new ones up from the bottom. If the curve of your fender has been modified (read bashed and repaired) or if the new ones are not perfect, you will have to file the edges and maybe gently re-set the curve to get them to slide all the way up without scratching (or chiseling) the paint off.

After I was satisfied with the fit of mine (back in 1990), I took them off and had them chromed. Then the platewr buffed the chrome and they look just like aluminium. The chrome resists sand, small stones etc better. Also, I can polish and polish mine and they don't turn black because it's chrome.

Mine from 2005 are shown here but they still awarded me 2nd in class at VTR with 384.5 points in July.

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919

 

[TruCraft]

I just installed my rear fenders (Signal Red) and the beading and stone guards.
Lot's of stuff to fit between a fender!!!!!

The passenger side small & large guards fit really close just some filing and soft faced hammer adjustments.
But, the (Moss) drivers side large guard was not close, it looks to have been loaded wrong in the jig, and the bottom lip is too far up.
My fenders are stock and have not been repaired.
I called Moss, waiting for reply.
I want to get my car on the road, so I took my old guard and tested my sheet metal working skills.
Looks almost as good as new.
All together and it fits good except for a small gap where the beading and stone guards meet.

The small gaurd is only held by one bolt and pinched between the fender.
Should I put a small sheet metal screw from the bottom to hold it on the front end?

Also what about sealer around the gaps?
Lyle

 

[TR3driver]

The small gaurd is only held by one bolt and pinched between the fender.
Should I put a small sheet metal screw from the bottom to hold it on the front end?

I recently removed what I believe are the original stoneguards from TS13571L, and it had small sheet metal screws on the bottom of both the large and small ones. Looked original.

Doesn't seem to have been any sealer used originally. And under those guards were the only serious rust on the entire car. That's saying something for a car that has been in SoCA all it's life. I need to get something put in there.

 

[TruCraft]

I recently removed what I believe are the original stoneguards from TS13571L, and it had small sheet metal screws on the bottom of both the large and small ones. Looked original.
Doesn't seem to have been any sealer used originally. And under those guards were the only serious rust on the entire car. That's saying something for a car that has been in SoCA all it's life. I need to get something put in there.

Randall, great, I'm starting to think like a Triumph engineer now!
I will put a couple screws in to help keep it tight a against the body.

I used "Dum Dum" I think that's what it's called, on the front fenders where they mount.
Maybe I will use that or some non-hardening body sealer.
Mine was also rusted around the guards.
No stone chips on the fenders, just rust holes!
:frown:
Lyle

 

[TR3driver]

Well, the guards definitely do serve a purpose. I left them off on the TR3A, and in just a few years the sand and dirt from the road had removed all the paint in that area, especially the leading edge of the rear fender where the larger one goes.

 

[PeterK]

On modern cars, they use a product called 3M Scotchcal on the leading edges of fenders and such. It's a clear tape-like film that had elastic properties to repel stones and road debris to keep the finish looking new.

We buy CNC cut sets of the film for the front end of all of our new cars to save the paint. And I plan to cut a piece for the front of the 4A after I paint it. The film is removeable (it gets destroyed by removing it though) and is invisible from 10 feet, barely noticeable at 5 feet.

 

[GilsTR]

I realize you are asking re the fitting of the stone guards...
but in our experience...the stone guards from TRF have a much
nicer finish than the ones from MM. Same goes for the grill.
Cannot say which stone guards install easier...we had to do
some small fitting on each car if I remember correctly.
Best of luck. Gil

 

[TruCraft]

On modern cars, they use a product called 3M Scotchcal on the leading edges of fenders and such. It's a clear tape-like film that had elastic properties to repel stones and road debris to keep the finish looking new.

We buy CNC cut sets of the film for the front end of all of our new cars to save the paint. And I plan to cut a piece for the front of the 4A after I paint it. The film is removeable (it gets destroyed by removing it though) and is invisible from 10 feet, barely noticeable at 5 feet.

I have seen that on race cars, a great idea to protect an expensive paint job, or even a daily driver.....if it's not too expensive.
I race Go-Karts (Enduro/laydown 100cc) for a hobby.
The Karts are only an inch off the ground and the body work get's sandblasted by the road dirt. For years, our cheap way of protecting the fiberglass panels was to use clear shipping/packing tape on the leading edges.
Lyle

 

[TruCraft]

I realize you are asking re the fitting of the stone guards...
but in our experience...the stone guards from TRF have a much
nicer finish than the ones from MM. Same goes for the grill.
Cannot say which stone guards install easier...we had to do
some small fitting on each car if I remember correctly.
Best of luck. Gil

Gil, I have not seen the TRF guards.
The Moss guards were a pretty good finish, not polished but a brushed look.
Just the left side one was not a good fit.
Still waiting to see what Moss says.
Lyle

 

[TR3driver]

I have seen that on race cars, a great idea to protect an expensive paint job, or even a daily driver.....if it's not too expensive.

Friend of mine had the Starshield (a similar film, also made by 3M I believe) replaced on the nose of his Lotus. ISTR he said it was about $3000 just for the film, tho likely that included the charge to install it. Does look nice ... but I didn't pay that much for the whole paint job!

 

[TR3driver]

(note the 'dip' along the front edge of the TRF guard):

Although I did not call and ask, it's my belief that that lip all along the TRF version is intended to be trimmed away to match your bodywork.

 

[martx-5]

...
Just the left side one was not a good fit.
Still waiting to see what Moss says.
Lyle

I bought mine from Moss and have the same problem. The right side fit almost perfectly. The left side I had to massage quite a bit, and it's still not quite right.

 

[TruCraft]

I bought mine from Moss and have the same problem. The right side fit almost perfectly. The left side I had to massage quite a bit, and it's still not quite right.

That's good to know mine is not the only one.
The vender they have making them should check the tooling and fixturing, something is off!
The bottom bend is too far up (about 3/8") and doesn't allow the guard to go up far enough to fit the curve of the fender. The slotted mounting holes are off the same amount, so the bottom bend is the problem for sure.
It looks like the curve and side bends are fine.
Lyle

 

[martx-5]

I'm sure you are right about what's wrong with the left side guard. I now remember working that bottom edge to get the guard to go up higher. I also had to make the slots longer to match the holes in the wing. But there was only so much possible, so it's still a little out of whack.

 

[prb51]

Mine are pretty beat up but now I'm thinking it might be best to hammer out the small dents and chrome them.

 

[PeterK]

An inexpensive alternative to chrome would be to (hammer them out... then) powder coat them with a reflective powder. Finally cover them in 3M ScotchCal film.

They would virtually look original and not be damaged further by stones.

Now that I think of it, maybe I'll do mine this way!