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TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear engine seal issue

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GilsTR

Jedi Warrior
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We have a couple TR3-3A's in our group that continue to have oil leak problems at the rear of the engine. Both have engine rebuilds...and both got the rear engine seal that you have to have the crank fitted for. Any tips...other than the old saying..."Hey...its a Triumph...what do you expect!" ?
Randall...have to believe you can help us here...anyone else?
Gil NoCal
 
Well, to be quite honest, my plan is to pitch the lip seal (and the crank I had modified for it); and use one of Chris Witor's 'Viton' seals instead. So I have no direct experience with the lip seal.

However, I do have some info stashed away:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...5NzUz&hl=en
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...1MzE5&hl=en

Another thing you can try is shortening the spring and/or the seal itself. I thought I had some notes from people who have done that with success, but I can't seem to find them on this machine.
 
I trust that you are using a breather cap on the valve cover as well as the draft tube on the block to relieve the internal pressures of the engine. That's the first place to start to assist in eliminating oil leaks. In addition, oil dripping from the back of the block does not in itself indicate that the rear seal is leaking. Oil finds its way to the back of the block from many possible leakage points, even the front seal that leaks can coat the pan and rear of engine making the rear seal suspect. Valve covers as well as the pan itself are spots that leak and can be blamed on that rear seal.
I run the stock set up and just recently pulled the flywheel and found very little evidence of the rear seal leaking but I do mark my territory everytime I park the car. In my case it's the pan and the valve cover that are troublesome as well as some unknown leak paths that I need to fix.
One other possiblity is the front seal on the transmission.

Darn cars just leak.............unless it's a show car that never gets driven or has no oil in it and is pushed on and off the trailer..........that happens!

JVV
 
I think Tony Drews had success shortening the rear seal, but from the sounds of it, it is a hit or miss type of thing which is a pain given the location of that seal.
 
Turn it upside down and pour it level full of solvent (I generally use gasoline, don't tell the EPA). Then rotate it back and forth several times (to force the solvent through the mesh). Pour out the solvent, and it's ready to go. If you aren't going to run the engine soon, you should probably spray some light oil inside to prevent rust.
 
GilsTR said:
....
Randall...have to believe you can help us here...anyone else?
Gil NoCal
Click to expand...

dichtring1.jpg


I had made some thoughts about that problem and worked out a solution:

https://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf

This idea is availabel here - part-# HP600:

https://www.zeni.net/trf/TR2-TR3Handbook/7.php

or here:

https://the-vintage-racer.com//index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5&sort=20a&page=2

Maybe this is an help.

Cheers
Chris
 
Thank you Gil!

But Joe Alexander had also a part on development and ideas.

I needed that solution for my car because I was disqualified twice for smoking on the track from under the car. I had also a Finn lake area under my car in the paddock after a race so I searched for a solution.

I found nothing that can be done without grinding down my crank to remove the scroll which I hate to do.

So I sat at my CAD screen and developed that seal and found a reliable company which can produce them in small quantities.

In first instance the ring was made for my race car but the tooling cost for the seal where so high that I ask Joe Alexander if there would be interest about that ring that every TR-driver can have chance to have profit from that design.

And so it came that Joe, TRF and me agreed to let make seals for the market.

Cheers
Chris
 
In case it's not obvious, that is exactly the seal I was talking about. Not having to machine the crank (and get it wrong!) is a big plus; and I really like the "belt and suspenders" approach of keeping (most) of the original seal functional.

Thank you, Chris!
 
I know that this is not lady like but I went a step further and took care about the front brake seals too.
I suffered over the years from toasted brake seals and leaking calipers from that.

I now have new brake seals of high temperature resistant rubber.

Just in case people have trouble with leaking calipers.

brakeseals.jpg


I have run the whole last season with them and had no fail.

Joe got a few samples for testing....I keen on his comment.

Cheers
Chris
 
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