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TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear Axle end float setting

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White79MGB

White79MGB

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Got my two TR3 stub axles back from the rebuilder yesterday. Hubs pressed off, new bearings and seals installed - woohoo!

Now I am setting the end float and I have .005 on each side (right on spec. But to achieve this, one side has .050" of shims and the other side has .060" of shims. The "book" speaks of equalizing the shim thickness on each side. Is .010 too much of a difference? I am afraid that if I equalize the shim thickness on each side then my end float will go out of spec. Or does everything kind of float inside there as one big assembly?
 
I'm not sure if that would cause a problem or not. I messed with mine quite a bit before I got it just right and I did get the same thickness shims on either side (don't remember the .00" though) If the book recommends the same I'd shoot for it. It is 'one big assembly'in that proper end float can only measured with both axles in place and secured. I'd try it with two .050 and then the two .060 to see if they meet spec in that fashion.
 
Hi,

Actually I'd interpret the service manual to mean that the *end play* should be equalized, or .005 per side just the way you have it.

It's most common for those shim packs to differ from sided to side. That's why it's important to keep them separated carefully if doing simple work and just reinstalling everything.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Alans right I'm sure. I don't have a manual handy in Kandahar. As long as the measurement is the same proper end play you are ok. That could just be the diff in the seated bearings etc.
When I got my car there were no shims (not the PO's fault as it went thru prior hands for 'service')and I luckily found it when a wheel stud failed. Wonder how long I could have driven without having a problem.
 
Thanks - yes, it seems that having the end float set properly is the most important. I too had no end float before I dismantled the thing so I too feel like I am better off now.
 
Hello all,

Setting the end float on my 58 TR3 after having the bearings and seals replaced is making my head hurt. I started out with .031 shims on the driver side and .049 on the pass side.( total .080 the way it came to me) So, on my first go around I devided it by two and put .40 shims on both sides. Now I have .011 float on the drivers side and .004 on the pass side and I am not sure what to do next. (I did not check the float before taking everything apart) Any advice?

Thanks,

(Sorry for posting twice)

Barney
 
Hello Barney,
It's not the shim packs, but all the microbrew from yesterday's picnic causing the intracranial discomfort. But as for those shims, take a look at the cutaway drawing on p.2 of the girling axle in the supplement at the back of the manual. Chances are that the short side (004) is hitting/pushing the thrust block into the central pin which may explain why your original shim packs were so asymmetric.
You do need to get down to the .005 (.004-.006) mentioned in the book. .010 is too much to leave in there, so go back to the original groupings, check those #'s and add an appropriate shim. Just use two bolts to hold each hub in for measuring. The asymmetry could be anything if it came apart that way, just differences in the machined surfaces or the bearing didn't seat all the way, etc. Hope all is well with your family. Have not talked to John in months and don't know if he's back to ballroom dancing. My job has become a quagmire of lawsuits and depositions and am starting to spend more time looking for an industry position. Elaine says hi.
 
Hello Tom,

I think you may be right about the microbrew... Hope all is well with your family as well, we sure miss are covtr friends! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge as I have been very lucky over the years and have not had to do very much serious work on the three. I am trying to make the all British meet next month on the 3rd, just down the road from us. I kind of hate to drive a domestic to it...

Thanks again and wish everyone well for us.


Barney
 
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