• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 radiator removal

Share this page

B

bobhustead

Senior Member
Silver
Country flag
Offline
I need to get into my timing cover. The Haynes manual, in describing radiator removal, does not mention removal of the apron. I have all hoses, fasteners, stay rods, water outlet, etc., removed and the radiator is fully loose, but no maneuvering seems to allow it to come out. Am I missing something? Thanks,

Bob
 
you need to remove the apron.
 
Thanks. This is what I recalled from the 3 I had 45 years ago, but I thought I might give the Haynes omission a try. Right front fender needs some paint work and as long as I have it that far apart I might as well do that too. I hate painting in all its forms and manifrestations.
Bob
 
bobhustead said:
The Haynes manual, in describing radiator removal, does not mention removal of the apron.
Click to expand...
That's odd, mine does (although they call it the "cowling"). Are you sure you didn't read the TR4 procedure by mistake?

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • UNTITLED.JPG
    UNTITLED.JPG
    13.9 KB · Views: 230
Having done this twice recently, you will have to remove the nose to get the rad out. Cheers, Mike
 
FWIW, someone reported years ago that it would come out, if you remove enough other things (like the cylinder head & water pump). Seems like a lot of work to me, but that might depend on how badly rusted the apron bolts are, and whether you were going to tear down the engine anyway.
 
I can remember removing the radiator without removing the apron. The water pump (with housing),fan and generator were also removed. I taped card board on the radiator to protect the fins. In the end, probably not much time was saved, but I was concerned about dinging the paint by removing the apron. I vaguely remember an article in an old (circa 1980s)Moss newsletter about the procedure.
Berry
 
Maybe, if all you wanted to do was R&R the radiator it might be practical - but to also remove the timing cover (and fan and crank pulley, etc.) then you will be infinitely more comfortable with the apron out of the way.

As for those Haynes instructions - can't make heads nor tails of them.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Maybe, if all you wanted to do was R&R the radiator it might be practical - but to also remove the timing cover (and fan and crank pulley, etc.) then you will be infinitely more comfortable with the apron out of the way.

As for those Haynes instructions - can't make heads nor tails of them.
Click to expand...
Now that you mention it, I've had the timing cover off without removing the radiator or apron. But I had previously removed the extension and mechanical fan.

FWIW, the Haynes section is almost word-for-word from the TR2/3 factory workshop manual. They do kind of make sense, if you know how to interpret them. For example, the "cowling stay to the chassis" refers to the two rods that help support the hand crank guide. And the "water seal" I believe is the rubber fender welt that was used on early TR2. Even without the welting, I find the apron comes off a lot easier if I pull it forward at the bottom first, just an inch or two, before pulling upwards.
 
Meanwhile, I got it all apart. Timing chain has no inclination to stand up. Shiny mark inside the cover on the tensioner side of the system. 3500 miles on the cheap replacement chain, but I did not, at the rebuild, replace the cam sprocket. Its teeth are kind of pointy. I have ordered the upgrade chain, new cam sprocket (crank sprocket looks fine), speedy sleeve, seal, gaskets, lock tabs, tensioner, fan mount items, et al. Apron removal wasn't bad, but is quite tedious. Thanks to all.
Bob
 
Last edited:
Back
Top