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TR2/3/3A TR3 Paint and Beads

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CJD

CJD

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I'm finalizing the body work and closing in on painting. Having never dealt with a bolt-together body, I need some advice on the best order to deal with the paint and seam beading.

The best I can tell is that originally Triumph bolted all the body panels on and applied the paint to the entire shell at one time. I have to guess they cracked the panels loose later to insert the beading at the seams. The down side of this is there was no paint where the body panels meet the tub. This method would also make it tricky to apply sealant between the panel and the tub.

My instinct is to paint the panels detached, and then install them afterward with the beading. My concern with this is that installing these panels is not very user friendly...like 17 bolts per panel and coaxing with a mallet type unfriendly. I see a lot of opportunity to mess up a finished panel or two when installing them.

So...I guess the simple question for the old heads is: what's the preferred order to paint and assemble these cars?

Thanks...John
 
I cut the edges in and let dry well . Then bolt together and spray. Loosen the bolts and install the beading starting at the door opening and working away.
 
John,
I can't say that my method I have thought about is best but it is the way I will do it. I want to paint the bottom of the shell first and the insides of the panels....my paint guy recommended an additive..rock chip guard for those areas.
Most of the body seams will be done prior to this paint. Then remount the body on a temporary holder and shoot the inside and areas that will be covered by outer panels. Loosely fit the panels and shoot the top sides and the rest of the parts.....after curing time, disassemble and clean up....then mounting seam for the upper fender panels and carefully reassemble...

Just my two cents worth....the reason for my method is the paint guy I spoke to said it will not look the same if the panels are painted flat and then mounted...

Hope that helps....I am sure others will chime in.
 
Thanks guys. It sounds like the best plan is to prime the bolt on panels and color the inside/mounting tabs off the tub. Then install the panels and color the whole thing. I have already sprayed the bottom and inside of the tub, and mounted it on the frame. I wanted the body totally set before I got too serious about door gaps and the like.

What is the best sealant to use when the panels go on for the final mount?



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Hi John I would paint it all independent and then put the panels on. Yes, the beading will get your attention. On the back, I tape the bead tab right to the body with blue tape adjacent and above each bolt hole. Chase all the treads so your assembly is clear. On the front, role the fenders in and set the fenders on the tub, but hold them open in the front end with a dowel or drift pin towards the bottom in a hole on the outer edge of fender (not hole to hole) to hold the fenderopen. Back at the door side of the fender you will be committed to the tub because the fender needs to roll into its slot, but let it float with a pin in a bolt hole, hole to hole towards the back. In the areas of concern for dinging, like under the windshield, but some blue tap that is not too sticky. Set the end of the bead to the back of the fender and put those three small tabs in place. I cut them shorter and put blue tape on them also because they bottom out on the inner fender. Working in from the back, now you can set the large narrow tab on the fender, double checking for end set. Next, do the same thing you did with beading on the back to the front fenders, tape the beading you can above the bolt hole, but it will stick up by the grill, so put tape on each tab so if it comes in contact with the fender it will not scratch the paint. Now, put the front apron on making sure you have that side to side wiggle room and gently bring n the fenders to the apron.
Steve
 
Thanks Steve. A lot of info...I had to study that for a while! I think I understand it. I would prefer to paint the panels detached...for a lot of reasons. I think I'll try a dry run on the assembly and go with separate painting if it looks good.

Thanks...!
 
John, I would prefer to paint the panels detached too at the stage you're at , but only if this is a solid color gray or similar pigmented color like white, yellow , green, black. Never a red or maroon , silver or any other metallic. There are at least two reasons : first the color will be uniform from panel to panel and second it will be easier to repair down the road. Even painting all of the panels separatly on the same day at the same time will not insure you get a uniform uninterrupted finish. If its basecoat clearcoat then assemble and basecoat the entire car. Disassemble and clear each part individually for a more controlled final finish. Good Luck either way. You've got a lot of time invested I hope you're happy with the results what ever way you choose! Kevin
 
Thanks Kevin. It's a PPG DBC silver...so...back to plan 1...

The first rear fender went on and off 12 times before I was satisfied. The second rear only 5 times. I start the left front this morning. I am certain I will be able to install them blind folded before I get to the paint.

By the way...is there a prefered sealant for the fender seams? Or best to use none at all so you don't trap moisture?

John
 
My plan is to paint the tub floors, engine compartment, underside, spare tire compartment, boot compartment Signal Red with an acrylic enamel. In short, everything but the actual exterior of the car. Set the unpainted fenders in place, bolted where it shows, masked off from the painted tub and cut it in, getting those bolts which need to be body color also in the enamel.I plan to do the panels off the car in an acrylic lacquer because of the rapid flash time between coats, ease of dust removal, and ease of repair (I scratched my TR6 with a rivet from my genes and never fixed it because of the massive repair time and labor needed). Not to stir anything up, personally I don't think a base/clear looks right on these cars. Anyone seeing the flaws in my scheme please feel free to comment.
 
I don't see a need for a sealant between the seams the quality of the paint is so far superior to what was used when new. Barry, I would still suggest spraying the entire car at one time with the lacquer because that color will change with more coats of paint applied. Not a lot but maybe enough to notice between panels when its all together.And yes I agree it will have a more period look and be easier to repair. The quality of the lacquer paints are not as good ( you wouldn't know it by the price though as the last gallon of red lacquer I bought was well over $400 and I think the Slow thinner was $50 a gallon) as they were even twenty yrs ago. To each his own but I'm doing a Healey in Nason single stage urethane in Signal Red ( Colorado Red). About $200 a gallon with hardener. Easy to spray and hard as Chinese arithmetic when done. Hope you're coming along with your TR! Kevin
 
You are very correct. The price of the paint, esp in red, is astronomical. I just purchased 2 more quarts of the enamel so I can finish off the inner fenders, inside bonnet, inside boot etc and that cost $125.00 per quart. I bought the lacquer three years ago and it was bad enough even then.
 
Hey John yes my description is convoluted. If you have a piece of beading, hold it in your hand and you will see how the little tabs have a mind of their own. One important aspect is to set the ends of the bead at the back. Start with a piece above a rear wheel; do not worry about the little piece down under in the back you can get that later. Do not be concerned with getting the bean down all the way on the tub and fender at first just get the bead in place with it sticking up in places as long as all the tabs are between the tub and fender and close to being above a bolt so they do not slide down. You want to see a bolt and a tab – a bolt and a tab ect… Again, tape the bead to the tub in back. The tabs will hang down into the wheel well and you can pull the tape off if you keep it low enough. Moreover, you can push and pull the bead down as you work it in. In addition, I would put a rear tail light on temporarily so you can see the end finish. I was at a show and this guy had a one owner tr3B that was really nice, but when he put the bead back on after the restoration, he did not get it all the back and you could see about a half inch of daylight. Anyway, I mentioned it and I could see he thought I was too picky. One other thing, I would not use any seam sealer on the fenders because you will need to get them off if the radiator goes bad.
 
Thanks to all for the good info. Steve...that's the only description I have seen for installing those beads...and will be very helpful. The manual totally ingores the beads, and I didn't pay close enough attention taking them out.

I hear you guys on the paint. It's hard to argue with the durability of the new stuff though.

John
 
when I did mine I "pop riveted" them to the fenders. I have removed the apron a couple of times and the beads stay where they are. You can use small screws for the engine bay.
 
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