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TR2/3/3A TR3 Master Cylinder Removal

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H

Hatman

Senior Member
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Forgive me if this has been asked before, but I couldn't find anything using the Search function. I'm looking for some tips on removing the brake and clutch master cylinders from my 1959 TR3.

I have the original service manual, but it's pretty sparce other than telling you what bolts to remove. Got the brake lines disconnected, the reservoir removed, the top mounting bolt removed on both, and the clevis pin removed on the brake. What I can't seem to manage to do is the get the clevis pin off on the clutch side -- no way to get any sort of screwdriver in there that I can see. Do I need to remove the wiper motor? Also, can't seem to get anything to get at the lower master cylinder mounting bolts. Tried various extensions/elbows/etc. to no avail. Looks like there's some sort of bolts coming up through the pedal box that are interfering.

Any tips/secrets?

Thanks.


Mark
 
Mark,
I just looked at my 56 and am trying to remember what I did.
I believe I did disconnect the windshield wiper scuttle bolts and carefully swung it out of the way on it's cable.
The clevis pins can be accessed thru the small cutouts opposite each one with a stubby screwdriver.
The bolts for the 'box' can e gotten too from underneath the dash of from on top depending on the po's assembly technique.
If I had mine off again I'd weld up the rear corners of the metal frame box and but a small dam in front of the bottom clutch/brake lever cutouts. A small split circular rubber grommet around each cylinder shaft would then allow any return leaks ( it will happen) to be 'collected' within the box itself and not contaminate the firewall or drip down the lever arms.
Pat
 
IMO, easier to just remove the wiper motor entirely. Undo the wires (noting which terminal gets the green/black wire); take off the cover and lift away the link to the rack; then undo the two bolts & a nut that hold the motor bracket to the body. Pop the rack fitting out of the end of the motor, and set the motor on the bench.

But, there are flats on the clevis pins, so with some determination it's possible to unscrew them with a wrench, with the wiper motor still in place. ISTR I used both a 1/8" Whitworth and a 3/8" AF alternately.

Also easier (again IMO) to remove the MC mounting bracket with the MCs still attached. There are captive nuts for the lower bolts, so the only way to turn the bolts with the bracket still attached to the car is to remove the rear cavity panel and work under the dash. And ISTR the clutch MC line gets in the way of turning the brake MC bolt anyway.
 
Hatman said:
Do I need to remove the wiper motor? Also, can't seem to get anything to get at the lower master cylinder mounting bolts. Tried various extensions/elbows/etc. to no avail. Looks like there's some sort of bolts coming up through the pedal box that are interfering.

Any tips/secrets?

Thanks.


Mark
Click to expand...

Remove the access panel from the bulkhead by removing four screws accessible from inside the cockpit. This will allow access to the bottom master cylimnder attach bolts from inside the cockpit with an extension. No need to remove the wiper motor.
 
Thanks guys. I'll give your tips a try and see how things go.


Mark
 
Removed the access panel (thanks John), which gave me access to the bottom MC bolts. I was trying to access the nuts from the front, not knowing they were welded on. Glad I couldn't get a socket on one!

Still had to unbolt the wiper motor to get to the clevis on the clutch rod, but that wasn't too tough. So the MCs are off, ready to be disassembled and sent out for resleeving.

Thanks to everyone who responded!
 
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