TR2/3/3A TR3 marking its territory as expected

[Tinkerman]

As I reported yesterday I got the engine to turn over under starter power, yea! As I kind of expected I have two minor leaks. Haven't checked yet but both seem to be coming from the pan. My first thought is to re-torgue all the bolts. I was wondering if loosening each bolt, putting a dab of silical seal under the head of the bolt and then torquing it to spec's would be a reasonable course of action? Is there some other way to approach the problem?
As always your thoughts and ideas greatly appreciated.

Tinkerman

 

[CJD]

It's one of those things that never works...but you gotta try it! (because the alternative is much more time consuming)

John

 

[DNK]

Is it the bolts that are leaking?
If not no need?

 

[sp53]

If the leaks are only minor, it might not be a tr3.

 

[karls59tr]

I've heard that the best way is to take the pan off ,put the flange on a flat surface and tap down the flange till it is flat again because the chances are that the pan has been torqued down over the years and warped the flange causing leaks. But as was said that is a lot of work. I'd try the silicone first. Let us know if it works.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I've heard that the best way is to take the pan off ,put the flange on a flat surface and tap down the flange till it is flat...

I believe that does help in many cases -- though I did it with a body hammer and the edge of a dolly.

Certainly can't hurt to try sealant on the heads but a better fix (if you just can't stand it) may be a flatter lip and the cork gasket sealed to the pan with RTV and set on a sheet of glass to dry. Then offered up to the block with minimal non-hardening sealant. As I recall the torque for those pan bolts is 'not much'.

 

[Tinkerman]

My leak was due to operator error, I'm the operator and I erred by not tighting the drain plug, sigh. At least it was a quick and easy fix!

Cheers, Tinkerman

 

[Mickey Richaud]

And did we hide our own Easter eggs this year, Dick?

Glad it was an easy one!

 

[Member 10617]

I tried the sealant on the bolts routine several times and it didn't work. The only thing that worked was to remove the pan, put a new cork gasket on, and used plenty of sealant when I replaced it. No leaks for the moment.... but eventually it may leak. Good idea to tighten the bolts a little after a few rides with the newly installed pan in place. Perhaps a little (little) additional tightening from time to time, but not so tight that you warp the lip of the pan.

As my friends always say: Your TR3 is going to leak! they were designed that way.

 

[Darrell_Walker]

Yes, it is a very effective form of rust prevention!

When I redid my car, the floor boards on the side of the frame toward the center of the car, where they got a nice coat of oil, were it great condition. The areas outside, that didn't get that nice spray of oil was where all the rust was.

 

[tinman58]

Hi Dick
After rebuilding my engine and taking the time to do it "right" ie gaskets RTV,etc. With good results 1 very minor leak at the timing cover is all that drips. But now the Toyota trans from the HVDA conversion now leaks. HMMM.. makes me wonder.....

 

[Tinkerman]

Dan your TR must be rejecting the Toyota tranny, which as you know sometimes happens with organ transplants heh....................

 

[Moseso]

Actually, I think the Toy transmission is becoming at-one-with the the ethos and heritage of it's new home.

 

[gubba]

Hi Dick
After rebuilding my engine and taking the time to do it "right" ie gaskets RTV,etc. With good results 1 very minor leak at the timing cover is all that drips. But now the Toyota trans from the HVDA conversion now leaks. HMMM.. makes me wonder.....

Having had much experiance with leaking HVDA toyota rear transmission seals..I can tell you that a solid drive shaft is the answer to your problems..I replaced that seal 4 times ( in the middle of nowhere..on long trips ) The solid driveshaft won't move as much.