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TR2/3/3A TR3 Leaking oil pan

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mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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I tried searching this but came up with leaking tops, antifreeze, radiators but no oil pans. I googled it also and did find a nice bit that Don Elloitt wrote but don't know if I can do all he did to stop the leaks. He put a metal gasket so to speak, welded to the oil pan to stiffen it up. I did buy a silicone valve cover gasket and it worked very well. Does anyone know if the silicone oil pan gasket is available? Or any other things to do that might fix the problem.
Thanks
Greg
 
Greg =

One of the common issues is the "dimpling" of mounting holes due to over-tightening. Perfect path for oil leaks. Take pan and true the flange up with a flat surface, a small hammer and a light touch, put on a new gasket and you're good to go!
 
Try a new gasket (cork) and Permatex Hylomar. Thin film of Hylomar and LOW torque on the pan bolts.
 
I'm not the best person to give advice about stopping leaks, but when it comes to oil pans, these are the things that seem to make the differnce:

1) make sure the flange is straight
2) make sure the surfaces are clean
3) don't over-tighten - I use a nut-driver, not a ratchet, and only tighten "hand-tight". Takes about 10 times going through a criss-cross tightening sequence to get them all equal

Sealer / gasket dressing: personal prefernce, as long as globlets don't squeeze out into the pan and clog things up. I like permatex "right stuff"; hylormar is good, too. The old-timers use thick grease.
 
Mehheh. Grease is good, Hylomar is better. But you're right, Eric: TOO much torque is the worst. If the gasket starts squitterin' out of shape, you've applied too much.
 
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ERIC!!!
 
mountainman said:
Does anyone know if the silicone oil pan gasket is available?
Click to expand...
I don't believe so. Justin made some attempts in that direction, but they did not work out and I believe he abandoned the concept. I'm not sure what the problem was.

You've already gotten lots of good advice, so I'll add only : Are you sure it's the pan that is leaking? It's easy for leaks above the pan to get mistaken for pan gasket leaks, as the oil seems to be less visible running down the "as cast" surface of the block.

I think mine is leaking mostly around the generator mount bolts, so one of my projects before TRfest is to pull the generator and coat the bolts with sealer.
 
Genny bolts, front seal, valve cover... You've ruled out th' cover, so.... :thumbsup:
 
This is my first redeo. Do I put the Permatex Hylomar on both sides of the gasket? I did check the other possible areas for leaks and the oil pan seem to be the only one with maybe to real oil seal a little [OH NO] I know that is a real pita. Hopefully the oil pan will get most of it stoped.
Thanks
Greg
 
Yup. A thin film only. Offer it up and tighten evenly to contact, let it set a few minutes and tighten to spec. It's INCH pounds, IIRC. Not sure of the exact spec, tho.
 
I just endured this last weekend. Wasn't successful. Used Hylomar on both sides of gasket. Flattened pan so it was completely flush. Then torqued to 14 foot pounds (per Bentley). That apparently is too much torque. Gasket burst around a bolt hole (two small pieces evident around hole at pan exterior rim. I had used a rental (better) torque wrench and torqued to 168 inch-pounds.

So, I removed all, paid Moss for a $7 replacement gasket and $10 shipping, and am trying again Wednesday. This time, I'll go for the nutdriver approach.

I think the torque is probably just fine for a dry gasket but when lubed with Hylomar, it is just too much on the gasket. I had same problem with timing cover when torqued per spec. Very frustrating but I'm going to get it right this time!

Pat
 
Yeah, Pat, the Hylomar will allow it to squirm around and (less) torque needs to be applied accordingly.

For a much easier seal, the black Permatex RTV applied and just tighten (evenly) the bolts enough to make good contact, let set for an hour then final torque. The RTV sets up as a compressible solid, Hylomar is liquid forever, easier to use with thinner (paper, etc.) gaskets.
 
Hi Greg,
I saw Right Stuff mentioned earlier as a sealant. That is a really good product. My brother has used it on building engines and such as a gasket replacement. It seals really well.
What kind of crankcase ventilation does your TR3 have? I have had issues with the rear oil seal leaking on my TR4A because of too much crankcase pressure, so I took the pcv out and put in a catch can on the vacuum line to the manifold. You probably don't have a pcv valve though, just a breather, right?

Dan B
South Charleston, WV
66 TR4AIRS EFI
80 TR7 DHC
 
On the wedge I used Spray 90 on the gasket and the pan.
 
On cork gaskets I never use any type of sealant. What I do instead is soak the cork gasket in very hot water for about 20 minutes wipe the excess water off of it and install it. On items such as oil pans, timing covers or valve covers the required torque should be in the inch lbs range usually between 10 to 30 inch lbs. [see the specific torque requirements for your application]
If you see the gasket squishing out you have ruined the gasket! It is way too tight. Start in the middle of the pan and work alternately towards both sides and ends in a criss cross pattern.
i,v never had one leak. [knock on wood]
If your application requires 20 inch lbs, what I do is finger tight initially then 10 inch lbs then final at 20 in. lbs
Gasket sealer would be your option it is just my preference and the way I was taught by an old timer mechanic not to use it on cork gaskets.
 
Yes you have gotten a lot of solid advice. My experience with tr3 oil pans is that the aluminum bridging piece because of the two seams it creates causes leaks. To fill this seam most gasket kits come with a cheap poor fitting piece of T shaped gasket made of cork. I do not use that. What I do is clean those little seamed areas like I am going to perform brain surgery. Even squirting brake cleaner up in the gap/seam and let dry. Then I use some of that heat rated silicone stuff just because I do not have any holmar then trim that to the block before fitting the gasket. Moreover, I leave the ends of the pan/working area open so that air can get to it on both sides because if you do not the stuff might not cure.When you think about how this stuff cures, just think of the stuff still in the tube with the cap off only one end over night. What can happen is the stuff seals itself back up and what is left in the tube never cures or dries. The sealant still in the tube takes a long time or never dries correctly. Give it plenty of air. In addition, if you do it this way make sure that when you perform the surgery that you do not leave a big glob of sealant there hanging loose to drop into the pan so that it find its way to an oil gallery and plugs up a bearing. Giving either you or the vehicle a heart attack or plugged artery.
steve
 
PatGalvin said:
Doc Entropy

You use black RTV with the gasket? or instead of gasket?
Click to expand...

WITH!

"Right Stuff" included. Thin film, contact and a partial cure time before final tightening.
 
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