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TR2/3/3A tr3 leaf spring movement

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sp53

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On tr3 leaf spring movement, does anybody know if the leaf spring is supposed to be bolted tight to the fulcrum pin or allowed to swing a little on the fulcrum pin? It probably does not make much difference and it probably is not going to move too much, but I could not find a reference in the literature on how tight to tighten the castle nut.
sp53
 
Hi again,

Are you asking about the front fulcrum pin the leaf spring rides on? Assuming it's the same as my TR4, there is a D-shaped washer used on that, preventing so the nut tightens on the sleeve inside the bushing, which will allow adequate movement. Perhaps I should clarify, it's actually the *hole* in the washer that's D-shaped, which acts to prevent the washer spinning on the pin and comes up against a shoulder to prevent overtightening.

The nut used on my TR4 is castellated, like yours, and fitted with a cotter pin to keep it from backing off. So, it doesn't have to be super tight. Just good and snug.

Incidentally, I think Revington TR offers heavier duty D-washers for use at that pin, to help keep the axle well located in hard cornering... I suppose it depends on how "spirited" your driving will be, whether those are useful or not.

I recommend putting some "Copper slip" anti-sieze compound on the pin, inside the bushing sleeve and on the nut and threads, to help prevent rust. Those nuts and the sleeve inside the bushing tend to sieze together pretty quickly. Permatex makes a copper-based anti-sieze compound simlar to what the British call "Copper slip" that's available in tubes and cans. They also make an aluminum based anti-sieze, for higher temperatures such as spark plugs, etc., that would probably also work fine.

In the rear, at the shackle hangers, there are either rubber or upgraded polyurethane bushings used. No anti-sieze compound needed. In fact, I was concerned about those nuts loosening, not seizing, so I fitted nylocks. Unfortunately there aren't a lot of threads and it needed "low profile" or "short" nylocks, which I was having trouble finding, so I just cut some down to size with my handy, dandy Dremel tool. I suppose some Locktite with standard nuts would work pretty well, too.

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Yes Allan the shackle and the D washer. I guess what I was visualizing was that as the spring bounces up and down it might travel on the shackle, somewhat. If it were too tight then the silent block might want to turn in the leaf spring itself. I was tiring to avoid the problem of loosening up the silent block thinking the spring is meant to move on the fulcrum pin a little.
sp53
 
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