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TR2/3/3A TR3 Jack points

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woody1091

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Hello,
I need to do a lift on the TR3 putting blocks or jack stands high enough to do some exhaust work and change out a brake line. Using a floor jack are there any jack points that I need to keep in mind. I was going to place the jack on the main frame. Are there any concerns? Are the frames pretty ridged on the TR3s. Feel that I may be a little over cautious but it never hurts to check with the experts.

Thanks
 
You can expect a small amount of frame flex, but I lift mine that way all the time and it doesn't do any harm. If you are worried about appearance under the car, you might want something between the jack jaws & the frame, but I've never worried about that either.

Easiest for me is to lift the rear first, with the jack under the center of the larger of the cross-tubes. Put stands under the rear, then move the jack to the front frame rail behind the radiator. Be sure you don't get the radiator guard by mistake, as it will not support the car.
 
Thanks for the info, you have been a big help.I didn't think much about it on my Spitfire but I didn't want to get off to a bad start with the TR
 
I use a scrap piece of 2x8 to span two of the main frame members where they intersect. Then use my floor jack on the wood. Mine has a couple of dents in the bottom of the frame from others lifting it so I use the wood to avoid doing the same.

Only use the jack to lift and always use jack stands if you're crawling underneath. Also make sure that the surface under the jack stands is firm enough to support them - I sometimes use a small piece of scrap plywood under the legs of the stand, especially if the stand is on other than a hard surface.
 
TR3driver said:
You can expect a small amount of frame flex, but I lift mine that way all the time and it doesn't do any harm.
Click to expand...

I've just had my 4 up on axle stands - opened the drivers door to get a wrench from inside the car, and it wouldn't shut properly afterwards. The restraint on the door wouldn't fit into its slot on the frame. Immediately took it down, and the door operates normally again.

Is this the result of a normal amount of frame flex, or am I crawling around underneath something liable to fold in the middle and kill me?
 
TR3driver said:
Be sure you don't get the radiator guard by mistake, as it will not support the car.
Click to expand...
Well, I feel a bit foolish. I've used the rear cross-tube <span style="font-weight: bold">and</span> the radiator guard for almost fifty years. That radiator guard just seemed so convenient. Bit by bit this forum is revealing a life of errors.
 
That radiator guard is pretty stout, but the frame cross-member, behind it, is MUCH more so. You've been lucky. The motor end of the car is <span style="font-style: italic">really</span> heavy.

One can lift the car one side at a time, too. Place the jack on the frame rail just to the rear of the bracket that the official Triumph jack fits into.
 
Try positioning the jack stands so that the length of the frame is divided into thirds. Or, use 6 jack stands in lieu of 4 so that the frame is supported in the middle.
 
woody1091 said:
...I need to do a lift on the TR3 putting blocks or jack stands high enough to do some exhaust work...
Click to expand...

It's natural and probably safest to put the jackstands under the frame -- but this can also give you misleading results when fitting up the exhaust. On stands the rear axle will droop a little bit affecting the clearance between the diff and the front silencer. The axle can be supported on jackstands depending on what you have -- not a lot of room on one side to get the saddle of the jackstand in there -- but just enough for a not-to-big stand.
 
Perrymip said:
I've used the rear cross-tube <span style="font-weight: bold">and</span> the radiator guard for almost fifty years. That radiator guard just seemed so convenient.
Click to expand...
Well, perhaps I should just say that mine wasn't strong enough, then. Possibly it was made on a Monday or something.
 
TR3driver said:
You can expect a small amount of frame flex
Click to expand...

At some time I began to notice that both doors didn't want to open easily when the car was up on jack stands. Maybe it was always that way and I just didn't notice. At some time I didn't know what a jack stand was, and I simply lifted one side or the other with the TR floor jack. I don't miss those days.

But it does seem to me that if one divides the frame in thirds as suggested, using six stands, it will require a lot of contortions to get under and do something.
 
Perry,
I use the front cross frame piece (behind the radiator) and the large rear cross tube to lift the car.
I put jackstands under the front suspension spring pans (rubber covered) so the front suspension sits and supports the car as it would normally and a JS on either side rear behind the differential.
On the rear take a 2x4 on each side thats 2 ft long and run it lengthwise along the frame on top of the JS and that seems to distro the weight better.
The doors on my 3 open with no problem when up in this manner...actually, they open even without the 2x4's and with the front JS's on the frame I just think this is an easier lift for the frame/bodywork.
 
Okay, I'll mention this -- if you haven't priced lifts in recent years you may want to take another look. The most common style of simple 4-post lifts are now built in China and the price (as is often the case with low-tech manufactured products from the Far East) has decreased considerably. I expected shipping to be a big deal but it was only $250 to FedEx it from the east coast to my door in Tucson.

Comparing the Chinese version to a friend's same model/vendor that was US built there is little difference. Quality appears comparable too.

I realize not everyone's garage/budget/marriage can accomodate such a dingus but thought I'd mention that they have dropped in price from being a garage luxury to being a pricey but useful tool.
 
Geo,

Good point. I find my lift indespensible for nearly everything from oil changes, exhaust work to suspension, and of course storage. My 4-post Bend-Pak US made lift was around $2000 including 2 jack plates, delivery to the nearest freight terminal. It was a 1500lb bundle and the terminal let me unband it at the terminal and carry each part to my trailer. The ramps were close to 300lb each so I had to call for help to move those. Everything else, I did myself.

I am able to store two cars on the lift during the winter months in a 9-1/2' ceiling. I just added a 14x24 addition to my shop so it's a little bit busy out there right now. The lift is in the original 24x24 workshop barn (that we built ourselves), and beside driver's side is an 8 foot opening to the new addition. My TR4A is sitting there awaiting completion.

This place https://www.asedeals.com/lifts2.html had the best price and excellent service. Also purchased my AC Hydraulic low profile jacks https://www.asedeals.com/hydraulicjacks2.html from them. nfi
 

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Geo Hahn said:
I realize not everyone's garage/budget/marriage can accomodate such a dingus
Click to expand...
That's the boat I'm in. I have to be careful even putting the car on jackstands with the hood open, as it's apt to hit the lights or rafters.

Considered putting in a service pit (ala Fred Thomas) but it turns out the main water & sewage lines for my house run under the garage.
 
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