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TR2/3/3A TR3 heater install picture needed

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M

mallard

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Can any body post a picture of the TR3 heater mounted under the dash. I know I can figure it out, but a picture would make short work of it. I've done a BCF, and google search without any luck.
 
You mean like this?

8820178764_71c444915f_z.jpg


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Next 2 aren't my car but are good shots I've taken over the years.

8821110054_6f369a8c0d_b.jpg


8821110086_ffd7f617b2_c.jpg
 
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Bruce I could not have asked for a better set of pictures, Thank you, Your work is also first class, thanks again.
 
Thanks Mike, they are also great pictures. Our cars are about the same color.
 
... there seem to be a lot of blue TR3s being restored right now ... is your registration number before or after mine Keith? You Lockheed/drum or Girling/disc? Cheers, Mike
 
Mines later than yours 14819 built in Dec 56. It has the front disc brakes, and 10" drums in the back (Girling). Heater is installed. My interior was removed from the car when I bought it so the interior has been a challenge, lots of research.
 
Yep, bit of a puzzle when car is apart when you get it. Mine was mostly in boxes, and of course some parts had gone missing too. Good luck. Cheers, Mike
 
I think I have to remove the heater assembly because I did not have the oil pressure line installed thru the firewall. At least I now know how to install the heater.
 
Keith, I'm not certain as I don't recall but I don't see the oil line in my pics and I only installed the heater once (one of the few things that did not need some sorting after it was installed first time!). Cheers, Mike
 
The only problem I have had with the heater assembly is that there is not much room above the heater for the heater inlet and outlet hoses to bend without crimping and stopping the flow of water. This apparently is a problem with the replacement hoses that are not easily bent. So check to make sure there is a reasonable curve to the hoses, or -- better still -- use pipe to firewall hose for the first few inches and then a connection to the standard replacement hose. The pipe to firewall hose is produced with a sharp bend. Just an idea.
 
Thanks Mike and Ed for the info. I think I got it installed OK. That's an interesting idea about the firewall hoses. I will double check mine to make sure there is no obstruction from the curve.
 
LexTR3 said:
The only problem I have had with the heater assembly is that there is not much room above the heater for the heater inlet and outlet hoses to bend without crimping and stopping the flow of water. This apparently is a problem with the replacement hoses that are not easily bent.. ...
Click to expand...

I got my hoses from TRF. They have small splines on them and were good for flexibility without kinking. They are not off the shelf from the local parts store. This may be one area you want to spend a few more $$.
 
luke44 said:
I got my hoses from TRF. They have small splines on them and were good for flexibility without kinking. They are not off the shelf from the local parts store. ThiIs may be one area you want to spend a few more $$.
Click to expand...

I have the heater installed but, my wiring diagram does not show where the two black wires are connected?
 
One should have a ring connector that is tightened under the lower right heater mounting bracket when you attach the bracket to the dash brace with a sheet metal screw. The bullet connector wire goes behind the tach and speedo to a bullet connector coming from the heater fan rheostat on the left side of the dash panel. The other wire to the rheostat crosses back to get power from the "live side of the windscreen wiper switch", which is ultimately off the "A2" fuse.
 
Thanks John,

Another wiring question for you. I have all my panel lights and rear lights working, I did hook up the rear harness. I can't get the four lights in the speedo and tach to work. I have them hooked up to the red/white connectors that runs the panel lights. I have the other speedo light blue/white hooked to the dipper button. No light? In addition, the engine turns over with the key on and you push the starter button, but, the ignition warning light, yellow wire going to D in the regulator and white to the ignition switch, doesn't come on?

Dick
 
There should be a black wire with double round connectors that runs as a ground to the tach and speedo. It runs from one of the ground posts on the center instrument cluster and will then attach under one of the thumb screw nuts for each large instrument. Since the tach and speedo fit into the dash covered with vinyl or leather they may not get a good ground without the additional ground wire. I also don’t think that ground wire is included in the new harnesses...so you may have to dig through the old wires that came off to find it. Once installed all 5 lights should work, but the OEM style bulbs have lead contacts which do tend to need a “jiggle” every so often. The lead deforms slowly with road vibrations, so they tend to lose contact with the brass blade that powers them.

Let me get back to you on the ignition light...I need to look over the wiring diagram to refresh my memory...
 
Alright...

That light depends on a couple connections to operate.

First is a good connection to the start switch, so it goes negative when the switch is turned on (assuming you are still positive ground). So, double check with a test light that the white wire goes to battery positive with the ignition switch on.

Next is a good ground to the “E” post on the regulator, so test that E is positive at all times.

If those are good tests, then the most likely cause is the cutout is not “cut out”. Pull the cap on the control box and look for the 2 point contactors. One should be closed (the voltage regulating contact) and the other should be open (the cutout). Of course this is with the engine off, and the ignition both on or off. If the engine is running, then one contractor should stay closed at all times (cutout contact), and the other will cycle (regulator contact).

If you find the cutout contact closed, it may have welded shut, so pop it open and give it a good cleaning with a file and contact cleaner. If it is open and the ignition light is still not lit with the switch on and engine off...Then...

Ensure the yellow wire to the generator is intact and shows a connection to battery positive with some resistance (6-20 ohms approx).

If none of that works...make sure the bulb is good...or maybe check that first! Like I described above, these bulbs have a dab of lead at the tip that deforms and loses contact over time.
 
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