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TR2/3/3A TR3 Grose Jets I Need Convincing

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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1 1/2 years ago I replaced the jets in my TR3A. Well it needs done again. Scott at Team Triumph convinced me not to get the Grose jets and said I'd be disappointed. Now I'm very disappointed in the original style. The 3 has been on the road since 1983 and I'm sure they have been replaced two times prior.

Anybody out there in the collective wisdom use these? I think I've got to try them.

By the way I wasn't getting fuel to the back float chamber.
 
Nope, just take the old needle and seat out and screw in the Grose jet, then check the float level and adjust if necessary. Some people hate them. I don't, they work fine for me.
 
I have them on the TR3A just because they were there when I got it years ago. On a rare occassion when the car sat a long while I had one of them stick closed and like you had a dry bowl.

No big deal, just noting that neither style is fool-proof.
 
Myself and others have experienced a failure of the Grose jets to stop the flow of gas when the floats were riding high enough to do so...on occasion.
I went back to the original type. ZS-175CDSE
On the other hand, I believe the original type are more likely to stick from crud after the gas has evaporated during storage.
 
I have used Grose jets on a number of cars, no problems, if the stock style is giving you trouble get the Grose jets, they are cheap enough and easy to swap out, just check the float level as noted.

Good luck, Greg
 
The previous 2 cases of a failure happened on the way home from a short trip. A little over an hour away. Once i can remember after a winter storage having a problem but this is getting old. I think I'll give Team Triumph a call tomorrow and order 2 along with my other stuff. Still would like to hear of others. Thanks for your time!
 
I had a problem with original style jets in my TR3 after the restoration...carbs rebuilt with new jets. The needle part was sticking in the bore of the jet. It was nylon, so I just filed the edges down a bit where it rides in the bore, and haven't had the problem again.
 
I have run Grose Jets problem free in my TR3 and TR6's for 15 years. Thanks for reminding me, I need to get them for the new carb set up.
 
I have used Grose Jets in my Mini and the GT6. I have removed them from both and switched back to the Viton tipped needles.

I have had Grose Jets that never completely shut off and allowed fuel out of the overflow. (No, this was not a filter/dirt issue... the valve just didn't completely close). I have also had Grose Jets stick closed as was mentioned by others above.

In theory the Grose Jets should work great but I've had too many problems with them to continue to have them in my cars.
 
Dough :iagree:

I have had the Grose jets in for lomger than I can remember and never a problem did I see.--Keoke- :driving:
 
All, gross jets have two problems and both are installation associated. When packed up for shipping a grease is used to keep away rust, there in lies problem one, wash with carb cleaner first or it will not seal until washed by lots of gas flowing through it, big time flooding. The other or number two is not being tightened enough so it leaks around the seal, getting a wrench on it can be a hassle and they were in Whitworth at one time, don't know about now.

Wayne
 
I seem to recall hearing that the manufacture of the Grose Jets went from the original family to another source (or someo such tale) and that the newer ones were not as good. Anyone know if that is so?
 
Looks like my post the other day didn't go through ... I will second Doug's comment about Grose jets not being able to hold back fuel pressure on some cars under some conditions. I've 'fixed' several cars now by throwing the Grose jets away and reinstalling the previously removed standard jets. Last time it happened, I was driving a friend's beautiful TR3A and it started pouring fuel out one of the vents while running down the road. Fortunately I smelled the spilled fuel, as it was still running OK.

If your 'stock' ones are sticking closed, check to see if they have 'rubber' at the tips of the core. Those are NOT stock, and some of them used rubber that will not stand up to modern fuel. The original valves are all metal, and in my experience remarkably trouble-free as long as you replace them every 100,000 miles or so.
 
If you take one of your original needle and seats to a Standard/BlueStreak parts house and have them look in their carburetor book you should(hopefully as they were available up to a couple years ago) replacement Viton tipped needle and seats. They are worth the time invested in locating them.

A lot less susceptible to gas composition than most others today...

I recommend them.
 
I'm with Ron.

<soap box>
And additionally I wouldn't put a Gross(e) jet needle and seat in a lawnmower, let alone my, or my clients' cars. They aren't reliable. Period. Vibration, gunk, poor quality manufacture. Go over to the Racing forum and hunt out posts by those guys.

A good clean set of Viton tipped needles properly set will last for years. ANY needle left with old fuel in the bowls will get stuck. The "two balls" thingies have even MORE area to get fouled by goop from degraded fuel. "Stabil" if storage exceeds a month and washing the needle/seat with carb cleaner and a "Q-Tip" on re-awakening will have the "normal" ones performing to spec.

</soap box>
 
TR3driver your post did not reach me in time and I had already ordered them one you resubmited it. I took one of the posters advise and soked one of the Grose jets in carb cleaner before installing. (for now I'm only replacing the rear one). Then blow it out with the aerosol cleaner and you should have seen the very fine machine filings that came out of the jet. At the bottom of the cap it looked like I was panning for gold. I could possibly see why someone could have problems with these jets if they were installed without cleaning. The filings would keep the small ball from seating properly.

Keep your fingers crossed for me.
 
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