• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Gauge Rebuilding

Share this page

N

NeilRogers

Member
Country flag
Offline
The speedo on my TR3 gave up the ghost on the weekend. Any suggestions on who can rebuild it for me?

Thanks.

Neil Rogers
Edmonton, Alberta
1961 TR3A
1980 TR8 DHC
 
Aloha Neil,

I have used the follow companies for gauge repair and calibration and have been pleased:

https://nisonger.com/

and

https://westvalleyinstruments.com/

Here are some other companies I have heard of but have not used:

https://paspeedo.com/

and

Mo Ma Manufacturing in Albuquerque, NM. All though they don't appear to have a website, here is a link to get their contact information:

https://www.manta.com/c/mm57mlj/mo-ma

The prices and turn around times tend to vary, so you may want to contact most of them to get the service that best meets your needs.
 
Thanks for the MG site link Dave. There seems to be some good information there. Also appreciate the links to repair places.

Last year the speedo started bouncing a lot. It would bounce to a speed well above the car's speed and stay there. Increasing the speed of the car would cause the needle to stick at an even higher point. When stopped I would have to tap the glass to get the needle back to zero.

I took the unit apart following Geo's link information and generally cleaned things up. When finished the speedo worked nicely and didn't bounce or stick. I didn't put any lube into it and wonder if I should have.

The last few times that I drove the car the speedo was up to its old tricks and getting worse as I drove it. On Sunday it was particularly bad and started squealing too. Then everything was quiet and it had stopped working.

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but now that I think about it I'm thinking the squealing was from the cable and that it may have broken when everything stopped.

Hopefully I will get time to look at it on Wednesday night.

Neil Rogers
Edmonton, Alberta
1961 TR3A
1980 TR8 DHC
 
NeilRogers said:
...now that I think about it I'm thinking the squealing was from the cable and that it may have broken when everything stopped...
Click to expand...

That what I think too. Sudden complete failure is most likely to be a broken cable. That said, you have to wonder why the cable broke. If the works inside the head freeze up the cable will break in about the distance from my garage to the end on the neighbors driveway (that was my experience anyway).

The cable of course gets a load of lube (different opinions on what, I just drag the inner cable thru a handful of axle grease).

Inside the head lubing should be kept to a minimum as any lube that get on the drag cup or that needle bearing may cause sticking but you may need to lube the shafts of the mechanisms that work the odos. I my case one of those seized up (tiny bit of rust). The shafts have a sort of cup midway on them that lets you put a dab of lube (I used Lubriplate) that is held captive and won't foul the rest of the works.
 
Good info on the rebuilds...called and got an idea of prices. Not cheap.

Speedo and Tach...$175 for instrument and $95 for redone face
Small instruments...$135 for instrument and $75 for face redo.

It sounds like they know what they are doing, though.

John
 
Back
Top