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TR2/3/3A TR3 fuel pump

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M

Meyer'sTR3

Freshman Member
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Was cruising along and then the engine just stopped. Like right now...as if the key was turned off. I pull over to side of road, try turning the engine over and it fires up for a couple of seconds and dies. After that no more firing up. I suspect the fuel pump has just died. Everything else seems good. I pull off the fuel supply hose just before the carbs and turn the engine over and get nothing through the fuel line. So....I am concluding that the fuel pump died. So what now? Do I order a rebuild kit, or just purchase another fuel pump. I don't mind spending the money for a new pump if it will save me the hassle of rebuilding this one. If y'all think it is better to just rebuild, could someone who has done this give me step by step instructions on the rebuild process? I have already removed the original pump and pulled out the diaphragm. I don't see anything wrong, but I suspect that something is amiss. I tried to reconnect the diaphragm pin again and am having trouble getting it locked back in. Anyway, I would appreciate any info from those who have gone through this already. Rebuild? How?...Get a complete new one? From who? Just go electric? What type? ect... I know you experts are out there, and I want to hear from you!! Much thanks in advance. :encouragement:
 
I think you will want to verify that there is nothing blocking the fuel lines -- in particular the line from the tank.

I have had fuel pumps fail but for me it has always been something quite apparent when I examined the pump.

I carry a simple in-line low-pressure pump to get me home if I ever have a fuel pump failure -- could also be used to diagnose a fuel supply issue.

At the very least you might blow air back thru the line to the tank to confirm it is clear.
 
Its possible to change the diaphragm in the engine by just removing the cover screws, but anyhow, you had to push down and turn it to the left a quarter turn to remove it so that's how you'll need to install the new one. I think the diaphragm only locates properly in one spot where pushing in and turning it not only locks it in place but lines the holes up between the three pieces. Push the new diaphragm in the pump slightly different depths and try rotating it to the right as you install it. It needs to slip down into the lever and make a quarter turn to lock . If it doesn't seem to fit just right in the lever but the holes line up with the bottom half , pull it up , try rotating it 180 degrees , push it back in and try locating it again. Electric fuel pump ? Fools gold to any true TR man ! We need the extra juice to drive at night.
 
There are three components of the rebuild kit. The diaphram is the big one and then the two one way valves. It is reasonably easy to change the diaphram but on the more recent pumps the one way valves are penned in place. They were originally held in with screws. It sounds like you may well have a more recent pump and one without a priming handle on it. If it were me and you do decide that it is the pump and not a line blockage. I would get a new one with a priming handle. But there is one more thing about the new ones. The pivot pin on them is not being held in place by ANYTHING. It just fits through the body and stays there --UNTIL it starts to move to one side. It will eventually move far enough to cause the pump to quit working. I found a easy remedy by placing some JB Weld on the body near each end of the pivot pin. Just enough to keep the pin from being able to move out of position.
Charley
 
Okay thanks.. I already know there is no blockage from the tank to the pump. After disconnecting the fuel line at the pump I had to crimp the fuel line to stop the flow of fuel from the tank. I'm just not getting anything past the pump. One more piece of info to assist in any more feedback; I must have the original pump because it does have a priming lever. The diaphragm is red in color.
 
The last time that scenario happened to me the coil wire wasn't on tight. Pushed it on tight and didn't have any more issues.
 
Well it is good to see another Washentionian out there with a tr3. I maintain rebuilding the one you have and next time you see one on eBay purchase that for an extra or parts or whatever. They also sell an aftermarket one out of Canada cheap. You could get that also for a backup; it will last for a few years anyway. Like you said, the one in there is probably the original and that demonstrates how long they can last, so a good rebuild is all you should need plus that is what the hobby is about.
 
I agree with Andy; Rebuild yours if at all possible. There used to be a guy in Mass. that specializes in AC
fuel pumps. Here's the (10 year old) info:
Antique Auto Parts Cellar PO Box 3 South Weymouth, MA. 02190 Date: 2-17-04 Phones: 781-335-1579; 781- 335-8860
The Cellar @ then-now.com
He's got a kit for your pump, and will either help you rebuild it or he will rebuild it for you.
He would like the AC part number before talking to you.
The part # is located on the lower third of the pump close to the threaded holes for the
attachment bolts. His kits come with an oil seal, which most of the kits don't.
Frank
 
I had Antique Auto rebuild my AC 5 years back and I am very happy with the results. Looks like new, and you know it's good quality.
John
1960 TR3A
 
I bought a brand new A/C pump several years ago and it still would not pump enough fuel. I concluded, maybe incorrectly, that the cam lobe had worn down enough over 55 years that it would not depress the lever on the pump sufficiently to pump the gas into the carburetors. A low-pressure Carter electric fuel pump,a relay, an impact shut-off switch, and a blanking plate to cover the A/C fuel pump hole and the car has never run better.
 
I totally agree with others about having Antique Auto Cellars rebuild. They rebuilt an old AC unit for me and it has worked flawlessly for 5+ years.
 
I can't imagine sending out something as simple as a TR AC fuel pump to some "expert" to rebuild. If it was working fine , it just needs the new diaphragm fitted. It doesn't get much easier . There is no mystery inside one of these ! Its harder to remove it from the engine than it is to change the diaphragm.
 
6TTR3A said:
His kits come with an oil seal, which most of the kits don't.
Click to expand...
FWIW, the kit I got from TRF a couple of years ago did come with the oil seal. It also had a brass screen and an improved (probably nitrile rubber) gasket for the sediment bowl. They charge quite a bit more than Moss does, but IMO the difference in quality is worth it.

I likewise wouldn't consider sending it out.
 
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