TR2/3/3A Tr3 front suspension

[ekamm]

Well I've started my rebuild on the suspension. Things have been fairly straight forward so far. But, I've run into a snag. I've got the spring compressor on and all of the attaching bolts off of the spring pan and the spring doesn't want to drop out. Here are some picks of where I am now. What am I missing?

 

[TR3driver]

Looks to me like you are ready to start loosening the compressor. Have you tried that?

After you've lowered the pan enough to get it off the studs in the back, you may need to pull outwards so it will come down past the frame. But it's got to come off the studs first. Lifting the trunnion and arms up may help too.

This shot was taken after I had loosened the compressor slightly

 

[TR3TR6]

Eric;

I agree with Randall, I think your compressor is holding the spring in place.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Agree, and sometimes, you need to give the rear of the spring pan a little help to get it off the two studs. As you release the tensions on the spring, I usually give the rear of the spring pan some taps with a rubber mallet.

Cheers,
David

 

[ekamm]

OK so in a previous thread I was told that the whole thing comes out as one piece. So how far do I need to release the tension. I can raise the wish bone up and down easily so I thought that it would just come out.

 

[sail]

You release the tension all the way and take everything apart.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Eric,

As you loosen the nut on the compressor it is slowly releases the tension/energy in the spring until it is at is full uncompressed length. Make sure that the spring pan does come off the studs on the bottom and is not binding on anything. Then loosen the nut fully and remove the plate from the bottom of the spring pan follow by the pan itself and the spring.

Cheers,
David

 

[TR3driver]

Right. You're going to actually disassemble the spring compressor before removing the spring, spring pan and spacer. Once all that is out of the way, you can start disassembling the arms & vertical link.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

This works better with the trunnion raised closer to level and a pry bar as you release the spring tension by loosening the nut. The pan tends to wedge on the inner studs and needs help dropping down and away . Kevin

 

[TR4nut]

Sorry, late to the game here - you need to support the trunnion assembly separately as mentioned. It helps to raise it a little, and pry gently as you release the spring tension. If you don't, it lowers the same time as the spring unwinds and will eventually bind up.

 

[ekamm]

Thanks guys I think I've got it.

 

[ekamm]

So can any one tell me why someone would weld what I assume are nuts securing the upper fulcrum pin? Yes those are probably 20+ year old welding rods still stuck to the bottom of the nuts. This shot is looking up the inside of the piece that the shock absorber packing piece rests on.

 

[tdskip]

Odd...

 

[ekamm]

Ya agreed I can't see why or what would be accomplished by welding the nuts. I would have been very difficult to reach and appears that the welder just buried the stick into the end of the bolt and left the rod attached. Anyway the upper fulcrum pin appears to be in fine shape and it might be in my best interest to leave it in place.

 

[Twosheds]

Welding a rod to a bolt is sometimes used to loosen a stubborn bolt. Notice that one rod is bent at the end.

I have only heard of the rod being attached to the bolt head, but maybe there is insufficient clearance on top. This could be a failed attempt to remove the upper inner fulcrum bolts, and the PO just left the rods in place.

 

[TRMark]

Might have used the rods as heat source to try and free a bolt?

 

[ekamm]

Well he didn't achieve any thing but to completely weld the nut to the bolt. Don't really want to but suppose I should find a way to remove it.