TR2/3/3A TR3 front suspension report

[prb51]

Just finished a 20 mile shake out after rebuilding the front end.
I rebuilt with the TRF kit and poly bushings thruout.
No squeeks at all.
The left side upper poly bushes were mounted 'dry' and the right side with anti seize (an afterthought after reading a post here)...neither side squeek, no dif.
The original rubber bushes squeeked some as the PO had the upper inners too tight and the lower outers too loose (it still worked well though).
I didn't notice any harshness, actually the opposite with less jolting over bumps, with the TRF provided poly.
I replaced all of the steering ball joints and the idler assembly.
Steering seemed tighter (harder steering) with the wheels in the air but is actually easier under way.
I purchased the new idler assembly from a popular internet auction medium (many for sale usually) and it worked out ok after I took the time to smooth the action of the idler arm in it's housing (initially out of the box stiff/rough) and replacing the straight grease fitting with a 90 deg. elbow fitting...the straight fitting would not allow you to grease the unit with the frame in the way. Anyway, no slop in the unit and it works well once massaged.
The PO did a nice job on the car and actually it didn't need rebuilding yet (obviously he didn't drive it much) but you don't know that til you take everything apart and it's nice to know how everything works.
p.s. I did find (during dis assembly) though that both the left and right tie rod levers (attached to the vertical link(s)) had worked slightly loose even though they were secured with the proper nyloc nut...that bears checking.

 

[TR4]

What, no photos so we can see your handiwork? It's always nice to see the finished product after all the hard work is done. Good to hear all is well now.

 

[prb51]

Not much of a picture taker, looks pretty much like the other guys work.
I posted to comment on the poly bushings as a recent thread here was refering to a squeeky front end and I was surprised that there is no noise at all (I'd heard poly could be loud)and I accidentally only anti seized one side so I did an unplanned 'test'.
The other was to mention the loose tie rod levers (both sides)...

 

[tdskip]

Any tips or warnings (in addition to the vertical links) to pass along to those of us who about to rebuild theirs?

 

[prb51]

Everything is pretty straightforward as per the manuals.
Take the time to keep your brake discs clean and lube free whilst doing everything.
It can get pretty tight removing the shock/ rebound plate as you need to jack the assembly up to remove both, a solid piece of wood block on my hyd jack worked fine. Just use extensions and keep your fingers out of the way for safety until you get the coil spring bolted thru with your spring compressor. Another easier way is to remove the rebound plate and shock while the wheel is on the ground and thread the coil compressor prior to jacking the car up, awkward but doable and safe.
I also used a jackstand with a wood block to support my brake caliper out of the way and that left plenty of room to work.
I used a micrometer to measure the length of my tie rods, from the end of the securing nut to the center of the tie rod ball joint, so I could set up my new ball joints as close a poss...worked perfectly as I've remained true with 1/8" toe in. Take your time and remeasure as it works well if your car is already running true.
When you reassemble the lower elements they must be done simultaneously, lower inner arms on their bushings while you put the new trunion in place, that's not articulated well in the manual but is a common sense thing you'll note when rebuilding.
The first side took a bit of time as I went slowly but the second effort went pretty quickly.
If you have any questions while you're doing it let me know as it's pretty fresh in my mind.
Note what I said if you are purchasing a new idler arm assembly, mine needed some work on the threads to be smooth and the zerk was wrong for the position.
I did enjoy the process though and tidied up everything nicely, good project.

 

[Don Elliott]

I assume that you had the engine in the car. The weight of the engine makes the job easier. If, during a total body-off restoration (or for any other reason) the engine is not on the frame, It will be almost imposible to compress the front coil springs to get it all back together again.

I have heard of one fellow who placed 12 concrete patio tiles on his frame because the engine was out. Another chap (in England I think) was doing a front suspension task in the little garage he had behind his house. Because the engine was out and the frame kept lifting off the jack stands, he wedged a 4" by 4" between the frame of the car and the rafters supporting the roof of his garage. But it didn't work.

All he did was lift the whole roof off the garage.

 

[prb51]

Don,
Yes, engine in the vehicle. Even then you can lift the car off it's jackstands compressing the springs. Don, I missed you at Triumphest. I could only make it Sat and arrived about 1130 and took off around 3 pm. I live just 2.5 hours from the hotel. You were probably on the 'run'. For a few hours I think I had the only small mouth there (other than a few TR3a's with small mouth aprons fixed). Nice place for a meet and I did get to see many of the cars still on the lawn/ parking lot.

Tdskip,
Almost forgot the most important activity; reaming the new lower outer bushings.
I punched the old bearings out with a socket and socket extension and then had them pressed in. If you have a bearing drift you could do this yourself (a bearing drift has a lip that extends inside the bearing keeping it the appropriate diameter as it is 'punched' in). I didn't so took it to the local garage. It only takes a second to press them in and he didn't charge me because of that.
I used a 5/8ths reamer;

https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=331-1140&PMPXNO=945503&PARTPG=INLMK32

from Enco and some WD40. Once you have the reamer started and centered (susp arm in a vise) you can put a small visegrip on the shaft of the reamer for a better purchase as you pull thru. Back it out often and clean the cutting grooves. It came out to a very nice slide fit with no slop.