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The fulcrum base for the inner wishbone is cracked at the frame. Say 3/8" wide X 1/2" long. I should get this welde before I proceed with the rebuild but how can I line it up so its in the right spot? Also how can I remove a bush that is rusted solid to the fulcrum pin? I've soaked it with liquid wrench but no luck. I'm leary of trying heat as I dont want to start a blaze. Any tips??? Karl
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TR2/3/3A TR3 Front suspension rebuild question......
- Thread starter karls59tr
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PeterK
Yoda
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When I removed the inner steel bushings, I found that the bushing is too hard for pliers or vice-grips to grip. I used a file to put a couple of flats on the bushing so that I could grip it with a wrench. I used PB Blaster and a MAPP gas torch to heat the bushing as I twisted it back and forth with the wrench. Aim the torch right down the end of the fulcrum pin into the inside of the bushing. Be real careful around the driver side rear bushing - it's really close to the gas line. I think that I wrapped the gas line with a wet towel to be safer.
TR4nut
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I used a very similar method as Peter - ground two flats on the bushing, then put a vice grips on it. Was able to twist a little, then used a second set of pliers to coax the bushing off by pulling it while rotating at the same time. Hard to explain, but if you can get any movement on the bushing I think you will be able to get it off. I didn't need to use heat.
Worst case, carefully cut a slot along the bushing and tap it off with a cold chisel.
Randy
Worst case, carefully cut a slot along the bushing and tap it off with a cold chisel.
Randy
TR3driver
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A Dremel moto-tool with the cutoff disc works reasonably well for this. Won't get right up in the corner, but once you get the outer part loose, the inner part will follow.TR4nut said:
The trick is to not cut all the way through the sleeve (so you don't nick the shaft underneath). Just cut mostly through, then break the rest with your cold chisel & BFH. A small nick won't hurt anything, really, but better to avoid it if you can, IMO.