TR2/3/3A Tr3 front suspension clarification

[ekamm]

I hope that I am not at the point of wearing everyone out, but at the risk of that I have a few clarification questions.

1. Installing a new trunnion reaming (1/2" dia.) the new bushing is essential.
What tolerance am I looking for?
Also how tight or how far to tighten the trunnion onto the vertical link?

2. lubrication or anti-seize is a good idea on parts
Where do I use grease and where do I use anti-seize?
[I assume silicone grease (is spray OK?) inside and out on any thing nylon, poly, etc.]
[I also assume anti-seize on non-moving parts like threads. castlated or nylock nuts?]

3. Torque values on non-moving parts are standard to bolt size?
On nylock nuts, am I'm looking for movement of moving parts with little or no play, without binding?


The shop manual isn't terribly clear on these points, and it is clear that there are many of you that have been through this. I'm sure that your knowledge is the best that I can hope for to get everything installed correctly.

Thanks in advance.

 

[TimK1955tr2]

Hi Eric, what shop manuals are you using? I found the Haynes manual has more torque specs than the original manual. I rebuilt my entire suspension last winter and had no problems over the summer driving so things worked out between having the Haynes and original manual.

I had a pro shop ream the trunnion bushings for me.

I seem to remember a manual stating to fully screw the vertical link in and then reverse a certain amount. I can try to find that info.

I used the same grease in my grease gun for any area that would serviced by the grease zerks. I think anti-seize is best for nuts and bolt threads, I tend to use grease on the bushings, etc.

Hope this helps...

 

[TR3driver]

1. Installing a new trunnion reaming (1/2" dia.) the new bushing is essential.
What tolerance am I looking for?

Ream to the exact nominal size (which as I recall is 5/8", not 1/2"). The clearance is built into the pin. In fact, I strongly suggest using a fixed reamer rather than an adjustable one. A suitable fixed reamer can be had for under $25, so is a reasonable tool to buy just for this one purpose.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Also how tight or how far to tighten the trunnion onto the vertical link?[/QUOTE]All the way, then back off one turn so it can turn from stop to stop.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]2. lubrication or anti-seize is a good idea on parts
Where do I use grease and where do I use anti-seize?
[I assume silicone grease (is spray OK?) inside and out on any thing nylon, poly, etc.]
[I also assume anti-seize on non-moving parts like threads. castlated or nylock nuts?]
[/QUOTE]AS is only for joints that do not move in service, grease is for anything that does move in service. Nyloc nuts are probably best installed dry, as the AS may interfere with the locking action. One exception is the sleeves that go over the lower inner trunnion pins. Although they do not turn in normal service (being clamped against moving by the end plates), I would suggest smearing grease on the pins and inside the sleeves, rather than anti-seize, as grease gives better coverage. Silicone grease is probably fine, but I use lithium-based on my cars.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]3. Torque values on non-moving parts are standard to bolt size?[/QUOTE]Yes, unless a particular torque is given in the shop manual, or special instructions supplied.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] On nylock nuts, am I'm looking for movement of moving parts with little or no play, without binding?[/QUOTE]Not unless there are instructions to that effect in the manual. In most cases they get torqued to spec or standard torque. The only exception I can think of offhand is the outer trunnion pins (if you have the aftermarket trunnions without holes for cotter pins), and there are explicit directions for installing those as the joint has to have a certain amount of clearance.

BTW, I advocate drilling out the pins and using castellated nuts plus cotter pins. I just don't trust nyloc nuts any more, had too many of them back off. When I got around to stipping my wrecked TR3A, one of the nylocs was simply missing, but the threads were undamaged. And those were brand-new nylocs when I put it together (they should also be replaced every time they are removed, which is a PITA).

 

[TR3driver]

Here's the page with the front suspension torques:
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...2NTZi&hl=en

Or if you want, you can download the workshop manual from https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...3MDU1&hl=en and look at page 77.

 

[ekamm]

Thanks a lot guys I am using the original workshop manual.