• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Front Springs

Mkutz

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
One last question -- Do new front springs need to be replaced with the distance piece in place? I had my springs replaced by a frame specialist a few years ago, and last weekend when I installed the engine, noticed that the front springs did not compress at all, which caused me to think that the distance piece and the longer spring was erroneously installed. The springs were purchased at TRF.
 
I am wondering very similar things...
I, too, have the uprated front springs from TRF (which I hear are the same as the ones from TSI). The catalog listing that I saw, when I bought them, said to use the spacer. They are now in place, and the motor/trans are on the frame. I thought that would be enough weight to allow me to lift the suspension enough to install the shocks and rebound rubbers. No go. The frame just lifts off the stands before the spring compresses one iota.

Are they that stiff??? Or should we not have used the spacer??? The free length of the TRF springs is near-identical to the springs (presumably stock) that came out of my car -- with spacers on top of them.
 
Now you've got the suspension together, I wouldn't stress until the radiator, body panels, hood and apron are all back on with fluids in, as this stuff adds a lot of weight to the front of the car.

Any springs that are supplied which change a suspension, such as deleting the ally packing piece, should be very clearly marked as a duty of care.

However, if there's still a problem, it can actually be easier to remove a spring with the car fully loaded. That's also a good time to fit shocks and rebound rubbers.

Hopefully, it will all fall nicely into place.

Viv.
 
Yes, even with the weight of the engine in place, it won't compress one little bit. In fact, I stood on the frame on the front end (underneath the radiator) and jumped up and down to see if the A-arms would flex at all... They didn't. The only bounce I got was from the tires.
 
I talked to Ted at TSI about front springs for my TR3. If I understood him correctly most suppliers are selling his springs that are taller and to be installed without the spacer.
 
I ran into the same problem with my TR and posted it in 2005
post here

I still haven't solved the problem. It happened with the old springs and the upgraded ones I purchased from TRF. I still haven't figured out the problem but then again, I haven't taken apart the suspension since the 2005 post. If you all discover the problem please let me know!!
 
What I don't understand is why everyone is replacing their front springs. Are they breaking ? Sagging badly ? Are you looking for a ride that is even more bone-jarringly stiff ?

Sorry I can't help with the question, all my TRs still have original front springs and they fit just fine.

When you bought the springs from TRF, did you order 201898 or 210903 ? The latter P/N must be used without the aluminum spacer.
 
Well, mine certainly wasn't a bone-shaker, and one side is noticeably shorter (sagged) than the other...

I bought TRF # SAH606 T26 F. ROAD SPRING COMP.GRADE.
 
My book also says SAH606 should use the spacer; so maybe it's just a matter of getting the full weight of the car on them.

But if the free length is the same, and the rate is higher, then the ride height is going to be higher as well.

I found a note in a Moss UK catalog that their TT4006 spring is the same as the SAH606; and they note that the TT4006 gives increased ride height. "Fitted length" is given as 7.10" (as opposed to the stock 6.75") That's only .35", but that is also measured at the spring. It's roughly 2:1, so about 3/4" higher at the wheel.

According to the TT catalog, the TT4006 has a spring rate of 390 lbs/inch; and the Bentley gives 'fitted' load as 925 lbs. That gives us a deflection of roughly 2.37", which added to the fitted length of 7.10" says free length of the TT4006 should only be 9.47". If you have them off the car, you might want to compare that to the springs you got.

To answer the original question (in case it's not already obvious), it depends entirely on which spring you are fitting. Some do need the distance piece, some do not.
 
I rebuilt my suspension the first time in the early 1990's. Prior to taking it apart I called TRF to try and figure out what parts I should order (this was prior to them having the "magic kit"). I did not order new springs the first time. Two items I did replace which are suspect are 1) aluminum spacers and nuts/bolts (grade 8's I bought locally) holding upper fulcrum pin. I reassembled with original springs but still ran into problem with springs bowed out, not being able to put on lower rebound, etc. I also ran into a problem at that time with the two major brit car suppliers having rubber parts that didn't last but a year (they've fixed that problem since). So I took the suspension apart about 1 year later and this time ordered new springs. I'm pretty certain I ordered the ones that still required the aluminum spacer (I'll have to check my files though). Anyway, reassembled with same problem. I have to assume the springs are the right size. The suspects are the bolts on the upper fulcrum are too long and push down on the aluminum spacer or the aluminum spacer I purchased was not the correct size (longer? then originals). As I still have the original aluminum spacers, next I time I take it apart and reassemble I'll go back to the originals (don't know why I bought the new ones to begin with). I'll also try and find exact length bolts. I'll measure the springs but don't believe them to be the reason.
 
Back
Top