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TR2/3/3A TR3 front bearing/hub advice needed

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Bob_D

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We've removed, cleaned and repacked the bearings on our '58 TR3 (actually had to replace the vert link, stub axle and bearings on one side) and have just remounted the hubs on the axles. After following the manual to torque to 10 lbs and then back off a flat or so the hubs seem to turn freely, but once everything was buttoned up and the calipers replaced, I pushed down and then pulled up on the wire wheel spindle and it seems as if the disk is actually moving from side to side within the caliper as if the bearings are allowing the hub to "flex" on the axle. One thing that did seem odd to me is that the new grease seal on the stub axles seem to have a very thick felt pad that might lead to lots of float once it compressed a bit. Is this normal? Any thoughts or advice? Thanks, Bob
 
Hi Bob-

I think Randall and others covered this just recently on another topic, but I can't find it right now - advice I believe is to torque and set the bearings initially without the seal in place, mark the final setting, replace the seal and retighten to that setting. I probably wrote that poorly, but if you do a search on topics in the last month I bet you'll find a good writeup.

Randy
 
I recall shaving about half of the oil seal off to get it to fit right. I think the general consensus about new oil seals is that they're way too thick over what is needed.
 
I had a shake on my TR4A that I could not figure out for a long time. Just two weeks ago I realized that the 10 pound setting thing two years ago resulted in my front wheels not being solid (as you noticed right away). Once I tightened the nut the looseness went away and the shake also went away. It cost me a pair of tires though.

In short I just re torqued them as I would any other bearing - tighten until it just starts to bind then back it off a touch. If anyone has a counter argument to this approach please let me know before I let anything else get damaged.
 
Thanks all. As usual, great input/advice. I think I'll do a combination of shaving some of the felt off the seal and tightening until it binds and then back off a little. When I got to 10 lbs (especially on one side) it still turned freely and when I backed off a flat and a half, it just seemed wrong.

Thanks, Bob
 
Bob,
Beyond the new seal thickness issue that I've not had to deal with yet the manual was updated by later flyers recommending less back off on the nut.
I believe I backed mine off 1/4 to 1/2 flat. I had the option of reusing the seals already in place.
 
I just checked, and the later TR3 factory handbook says "1/2 flat". Apparently with the drum brakes, they were worried about how hot the hub might get and wanted to leave plenty of room for expansion. But the clearance was revised downward over the years.

Normally, 10 ftlb on the nut will result in some resistance ... if not, I would be wondering what else is wrong (like a damaged thread or something).
 
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