TR2/3/3A TR3 front apron removal - tips and suggestions

[tdskip]

Other than don't do it - lol.

Need to pull the engine...

 

[Twosheds]

It's not too difficult. The only problem occurs when the captive nuts escape captivity. I ground the heads of the bolts away with a Dremel tool on the two that did.

Mark the wires with tape if you are color-blind like me.

Get a helper for the actual lifting away of the apron. Pull the bottom forward first, then lift up on the top.

You'll probably take the bonnet off, too, right?

Tape the wing beading to the fenders or they will catch on your pant leg every time you walk in front of the car.

Run a tap through the apron captive nuts when it's off and put anti-seize on the bolts when you install it. Use the pointy bolts if you have to replace any. It's easier to line up things.

 

[martx-5]

I would soak the captive nuts in PB Blaster or Kroil penetrant for a day or so beforehand. WD-40 is about useless for this. I would also consider loosening the bolts along the upper edge of each wing where it attaches to the inner fender so you can shift the wings out a bit (you might have to remove the first few). That will make it easier to remove the apron with those beadings flapping around. Of course, if you have the inner fenders dum-dummed to the outer wings, this may not be possible to do easily.

I would also consider pop riveting the beading to the lower part of the wing after you remove the apron if you were able to move the wings out. With the wings pushed out, assembly will be much easier with the beading held in position. I pop riveted the beading in place, and was able to get the apron on without any help and didn't have to worry about getting the fenders all scratched from the sharp tabs of the beading.

 

[NickMorgan]

... and don't forget all of those sneaky little bolts, such as the ones under the starter handle bracket and the ones between the inner wings and the bottom the the grille opening.
You may find that you have to loosen the wings slightly to help release the front apron.
You will probably have to undo the srews holding the wing beading along the top of the wings, either side of the bonnet. Yes, definitely tape the beading to the wings. It will probably pop up when you take the apron off. Those little metal tabs have very sharp corners. I have a lovely scratch on my apron from one of them when I was a bit careless refitting the apron!

 

[TR3driver]

The one tip that made the biggest difference to me was to get a 7/16" GearWrench (or similar) for undoing all those bolts underneath, that lack clearance for an ordinary ratchet & socket.

I'll second the PB Blaster. Regular Kroil doesn't seem to work quite as well for me, although I've never tried Sili-Kroil and I've heard it works better than the regular stuff. They also don't sell Kroil at Wally Mart

Also, if the captive nuts do turn in their cages, you may be able to remove a headlight and reach down inside with "needle-nose" vise grips and pinch the cages back onto the nuts. Lots easier IMO than grinding the head off and then dealing with the aftermath. I left the old cages and nuts (after running a tap through the nut of course), they seem to be fine.

 

[TR3driver]

Mark the wires with tape if you are color-blind like me.

FWIW, I've more or less given up on that approach. My wiring harness is original, and most of the colors have long since faded to sort of a dark tan. Even with the wires marked, I usually wind up doing some troubleshooting for bad connections and crossed wires; might as well start there IMO. I find it easier to just test connections until it's right.

In fact, I just finished the last little bit of that last weekend; the 56 is now wearing it's front bumper and grille, with all the lights working. Crazy DPO had closed the holes in the inner fenders where the original lamps stuck through; then cut new holes behind where the 'wide mouth' lamps go instead of making the dimples. Only problem is, the new holes weren't in quite the right place! So I now have combination dimples and holes, with some rattle can paint hiding my sins :laugh:

 

[tdskip]

Thanks guys - let me get soaking!

 

[tdskip]

Actually I do have one more question - what other tasks like rebuilding the steering box should I be thinking about if I'm going to be pulling the apron anyway?

 

[TR3driver]

Actually I do have one more question - what other tasks like rebuilding the steering box should I be thinking about if I'm going to be pulling the apron anyway?

Steering box and radiator are the two biggies.

It's easier to see the Silentblocs and idler arm with the apron off, but they aren't hard at all with it on.

 

[mrv8q]

Actually I do have one more question - what other tasks like rebuilding the steering box should I be thinking about if I'm going to be pulling the apron anyway?

Hey, Tom, while you're there: motor mounts, boil out radiator, TRF yellow fan kit. Pulling the apron is not too bad of a job, as long as all the nuts and bolts cooperate. Luckily, I had no problems when I did mine.... best of luck!

 

[prb51]

I have mine off now as I'm putting in a R&P. Easy to do really if your caged nuts are not frozen. Do mark all of the wires for your headlights/signal lights and make sure they are not captured by the metal wire harness tabs.
On the early models the recessed light fixtures for the turn signals tend to hang up in their cutouts when you attempt to lift the apron off...if you have a 3a shouldn't be an issue.
Have a towel laid out where you plan to prop it up and I lay it on one side (caged nut area) vertically.
I put blue masking tape along the inner fenders so the metal beading tabs don't mar the paint when the bead is free and pops up (haven't riveted them in place as some have).
If one of the caged bolts/nuts is difficult to remove due to pressure (some aprons have had bodywork done) remember that and replace that bolt/nut first when replacing the apron.
Oh yea, don't try it with the bumper still on, that comes off first, then the rest.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks - good coaching guys. I appreciate it.