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TR2/3/3A Tr3 engine trany pull

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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If I pull the front apron off and frontal parts, how hard would it be to pull engine and trany out in one piece? I plan on updating (renewing) the engine compartment. After 30 years of driving it it looks horrible in there. My hope is when it goes back in there is a overdrive attached to it too..
 
Got_All_4 said:
If I pull the front apron off and frontal parts, how hard would it be to pull engine and trany out in one piece? I plan on updating (renewing) the engine compartment. After 30 years of driving it it looks horrible in there. My hope is when it goes back in there is a overdrive attached to it too..
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Having an overdrive makes a very nice difference on highway speeds, even back roads where being able to flip between 3rd and OD helps find the perfect gear.

You should be able to get it out as a unit.
 
It will come out together. Actually I thought it was easier than taking the transmission out. I recommend a engine lift that includes a tilt mechanism so that you can let the rear of the trans angle down easily. I cleaned and painted the engine bay while mine was out. Just pulled the wires back through the cowl, lifted the brake pipes etc. and masked them off and covered all the holes in the cowl from under the dash so paint would not get into interior. then replace all the grommets. Turned out really nice I think.
 
Definitely pull them as a pair, if you are taking the engine out. I agree, some sort of tilting mechanism makes it easier. In the past, I've done it just by looping a chain through a wide hook, and prying the links of the chain through the hook to tilt the engine. Stick a punch through the last link to lock it in place.

Removing the rear cross member makes it easier too. Otherwise, the engine tends to hit the throttle linkage where it runs across the firewall, and bend it. The bend didn't seem to actually hurt anything, but looked odd :smile:
 
Thanks Kleykamp and Randall. I do have a engine lift but need to get one of those tilt mechanisms. I've used them before and they make all the difference. I think I am now going to a little grater extent redoing the engine compartment then originally planed. Back in 1976 when I bought this car they weren't worth much so I didn't do a perfect job in the engine compartment. made the exterior and the interior very nice but now that the values have gone up considerably it's now time to renew everything before I get too old. Once I get started I plan to start a new tread with pics and all. I want to keep this car as close to original as possible so I'm sure I'll have more questions.
 
Be aware of shipwrecks disease and set limits for yourself. I suggest that you remove the exhaust pipe. Both in removing and installing engine plus overdrive it provided interference. When installing engine and overdrive, it is beneficial to remove the top plate of the transmission with shifter attached. This only involves the removal of eight bolts and will provide several inches of extra room in avoiding the fire wall. This tip was provided by Titanic which made the install easiar. I used the engine tilt from Harbor Freight which was useful and inexpensive. Good luck in your journey.


Gerry




V
 
Can't add much to whats already been mentioned. Unless you just like having extra tools, let some air out of the front tires and slighty jack up the rear of the car, you won't need the tilting lift. As Gerry said, take the top off of the trans. Not a difficult job at all. If you leave the exhaust manifold in, you may want to pull the starter.

Marv
 
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