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TR2/3/3A TR3 engine rear oil seal

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Tomorrow is the big day when we start the engine and keep fingers crossed. Everything is back in except the box so I hope there will not be any leaks. I have to go now as I'm celebrating becoming a grandad for the first time last night and all the family are going out to wet young Liams head.

I'll let you know how it all goes, the engine , the party .......
Steve
 
Ok, the latest on my leak. I removed and checked the crank which was 63.9mm and I've replaced the rear seal in the conversion kit. Unfortunately it is still b****y leaking.

I used Wellseal as recommended by Revingtons, but when the engine warmed up, the sealant started dripping from the aluminium seal followed by oil when the engine was switched off.

Why would the sealant drip, I thought it would have hardened? It would seem that I'm going to have to strip it all down again, but I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Also I'm concerned about why the sealant dripped when warmed.

I dont know if the following is linked or just confusing me - the electric fan came on after about 10 mins of the engine running, which seems a bit quick for my liking. It then goes on and off again after a few minutes. Should the engine warm up that quickly, it is fairly cold here at the moment.

Also how much oil should be delivered to the rockers. I had the cover off when running and there seemed minimal amounts of oil being 'sprayed' about.

Any help or suggestions will be greatly received.
 
First I'd suggest check the lip of the seal to see if there is any damage.

If not, then the above suggestion about tightening the spring inside the seal is a good one and an old trick when forced to reuse a seal of this type.

The spring is a continuous small coil and exerts some tension on the seal, to keep it snug on the sealed surface. If the spring gets loose, over time or because it's bent or stretched during installation, it may allow a leak. A rubber seal that is missing the tensioning spring will also likely leak.

Most of these springs can be shortened a little to increase tension. To elaborate on the above response, carefully coax the spring out of it's slot inside the rubber part, taking care not to stretch the spring any more. Once out, locate the joint where one end of the spring is attached to the other form a continuous loop. Most can be unscrewed at that joint. Snip 1/4" or so off the "female" end and screw it back together. More or less snipping may be needed, depending upon the size of the seal, length of the spring and how much tension needs to be added back into the spring. As a general guide, it should require a little strecthing to put it back into it's slot in the rubber part of the seal.

Put it all back together and hope for the best!

Another possibility, the rubber seal lip hasn't fully "seated" on the sealed surface. It might improve with some running in.

I hope these ideas help!
 
As for your other 2 questions --

How soon the fan comes on will depend in part on where the sensor is located. Some attach it to the top hose or the tstat housing (possibly because these are easy to get to) which can cause it to come on early & often. Having it on the lower hose gets it positioned better (IMO) and causes it to come on only when it is needed (when the radiator is no longer able to keep up).

As for the rockers... sounds about right, it is more a 'seep' than a 'splash'... oil is needed here but not a whole lot (under normal driving conditions).
 
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