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TR2/3/3A TR3 engine hand crank

Got_All_4

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Just got a engine hand crank. A bit on the rusty side so I plan on soaking it in some Evapo Rust then painting it. What color or finish were they. Mine would be for a 1960 TR3A.
 
I agree, black. And before you do restoration work you might want to confirm it is the right one for your car. I have seen at least 3 different cranks (possibly more) - the main difference is in the placement of that thick collar bit that fits into the guide.
 
Thanks I wondered about that. On early TR3s and 2s the guide is closer to the front of the apron. There was an early on on Ebay recently and the thick part was clearly towards the back of the shaft and closer to the crank handle. This one is suppose to be for a TR3A or early TR4. Anyway probably not going to use it for starting just addition for the tool kit. Maybe use it for adjusting the valves.
 
In high school, I had a 1965 Sunbeam Alpine with a hand crank. My buddy saw it in the trunk one day and said hey that is a hand crank I thought, what! but in those days those starters were more than they are now, and it got used because that was all I had when the original went out.
 
It's a spectator sport...

gF3Vo4n.jpg
 
I hand cranked a TR only once. It was in 1965 and the car was a '63 TR4. Its was a cold December night in Boston and I had to get my date back to her dorm from the fraternity house. The battery didn't have enough to crank the car over to start. I pulled out the choke, opened the hood, primed the carbs with the fuel pump and got the crank out of the trunk. It took a couple of tries, but it did start. There was a look of disbelief from the passenger seat. :cool:
 
Back in the 60s and 70s batteries went through a period at the end of their lives of barely turning the engine over in the morning but being Ok the rest of the day. Now they don't seem to fade out they work today and don't tomorrow.
So I would use my starting handle when my battery got to that point.

David
 
Great points and memories over a hand crank. I don't have a Lucas starter any more. Got tired of getting out and banging on the starter or rocking the car back and forth in gear to get it off the flat spot on the armature. I have a high torque starter but last year it did the spin thing twice. First time in 20 years. Might be glad I have the crank.
 
My Lucas starters have been quite robust. I've still got the origanls with not much more than replacement brushes. Hand starting does require a bit of skill, strength and a well tuned engine, at least that's my experience. I've never been able to hand start mine cold although many have done it regularly. I'd suggest giving it a try before you count on that crank getting you out of a jam.
Tom
 
Yeh I remember the starting process being an alignment of few things. I would have the choke just right and then gently turn the motor over until I was right at the top of a compression stroke then just twist the crank with one hard snap, and it would catch and go and release the crank; like said the motor had to be tuned good.


I would say got all 4 that it sounds like from here your ring gear is rounded out on one of the starting points. 4 cylinders engines pretty much stop at 2 spots which are compression top points which are reflected onto the ring gear and the starter drive smashes there each time the starter is engaged .
 
A post of mine from May, 2011:

In 1966, I stalled my 1960 TR3 in the middle of a busy 5 way intersection in Chicago. My starter, of course, was junk. Just as the impatient drivers at all 5 stoplights were about to get on their horns, I jumped out of the car, hand crank in hand, stuffed it in the guide in front, brought it up on compression and gave it a quick snap. She lit up instantly ( I had done this before ) I jumped back in and proceeded to drive off to a melody of hoots, beeps and applause. THAT is why I've scrapped (sold) a perfectly good R&P. I was 18 at the time.
 
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