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TR2/3/3A TR3 dead cylinder ?

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Years ago Randell help with a similar problem. Someone had taken the spring out and stretched the spring to help put pressure on the cork washers, probably to stop a leak. What happen was the spring was too long now and the jet assembly would not return, leaving about 1/16 to the base return. The stretched spring would hold the jet out when the choke was pulled. I could push the jet back with my finger, so at this time I had no idea the problem was the spring. I figured the jet was sticky. However, this let too much fuel run into #1 and foul the plug, and hardly effected number 2.

Anyways, I found a stock spring that was about 3/8 to a 1/4 shorter and that fixed. I latter bought some springs from Joe in NY and those springs where correct. To me it sounds like they fixed your car by adding shims in the assembly to apply more pressure to the glad washers to stop a leak.

Steve
 
Carbon arch in the cap?? but it has been changed? New cap could be NFG.....
again put on a known cap from a running car.
Mad dog
 
I wouldn't remove the head so long as you have good compression in all 4 holes. On the chance it is actually coolant fouling on the plug, it might be good idea to run a pressure test on the cooling system, though.
 
number one plug out.
whilst someone turns her over
hold a match by the plug hole
if you loose all the hairs on your arm and your eyebrows, its fuel.
if it blows the match out its something else.


dont do this at home folks, im a professional
 
How many discrete pulses of the gauge needle does it take to get to 135 on #1? Is it the same number of pulses for each of the other cyls? Do you have access to equipment for a bleed down test?
Bob
 
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when checking valve lash is it possible you didn't notice a valve not opening?
Probably not,just a thought.
Tom
 
Serious head scratcher. I would find someone to do the bleed down test with the pistons at the bottom of the power stroke. Before tearing it down.
Bob
 
got the springs , #1 cylinder firing just fine. Seems all you carb issue pushers were right. Car runs strong on all 4 cylinders.
 
Yeah, the small cross-over passage in the intake manifold causes some strange issues with mixtures. One of the biggest I have done (and seen others do also) is to adjust the carbs separately. What will happen is you will eventually end up with one carb providing only air, and the other providing all the fuel through the cross-over. Of course that prevents you from ever getting the engine running well! Always start with the same number of flats, and adjust the same number as you tune. That will keep both carbs pulling equally, with no dead cylinders or transition issues.

Anyway...glad you got it going !
 
wltsii said:
got the springs , #1 cylinder firing just fine. Seems all you carb issue pushers were right. Car runs strong on all 4 cylinders.
Click to expand...
So it was the weak carb springs in the rear that were causing no fuel to that cylinder, correct? In what way did the springs starve the fuel? Glad you figured it out. (y) (y)
 
karls59tr said:
So it was the weak carb springs in the rear that were causing no fuel to that cylinder, correct? In what way did the springs starve the fuel? Glad you figured it out. (y) (y)
Click to expand...
Not starving fuel, overloading, primarily the front. The spring applies pressure upward and downward on o-rings that seal the jet tube so only gas pulled past the tapered needle gets into the carb. If the upper o-ring leaks extra gas is flooded into the throat of the carb. Which kept flooding the #1 an wetting the plug, keeping it from firing. Why not the #2 as well is a mystery to me.
 
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