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TR2/3/3A TR3 Dash [Facia]

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martx-5

martx-5

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Well, I'm about ready to recover the dash in leather. I pulled all the old stuff off, but it wasn't original, so I don't really know if the way it was done was the correct way. I cleaned up all the glue, sanded everything down, straightened a few dings and primed it. If someone could give me a few pointers on how to do this job before I trash a nice piece of red leather, I'd be most appreciative. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
You cut it oversize, then glue it along the top tightly. Then pull it down and cut out where the central panel goes as well as for the glove box. Leave as much material in the holes. Then continue glueing it and for these 2 large holes bend it and stretch it as tightly as you can. You will need to slit it and then cut off the excess when it's all done. The hardest bit is making sure you don't get wrinkles to the lower 2 curves near the center panel.
 
I used vinyl to recover my dashboard, which is more pliable. I started at the flat section on the right next to the tach and speedometer and moved across to the left. I used contact cement and worked small areas. I also used a hair dryer and even a heat gun (very carefully) to stretch the vinyl and cut "v's" to strech around corners and glue on the back. The most difficult areas are where the instrument panel and glovebox door are located. I had never tried this before and I'm sure I spent 30 hours over many evenings until I was finished. The TR3 Restoration Book has a good section on recovering the dash with some helpful photos. When I finished I realized that it had been a fun experience but there were a few times ... By the way, no wrinkles. Enjoy the job but be patient. It takes time.
Gary
 
I would strongly recommend using vinyl, as there are plenty of vinyl products that look and feel just like leather, but wear better and are easier to work with.
 
I strongly agree with everyone advocating vinyl. The roll trim around the cockpit that was originally leather will be enough of a hassle to start with. Then if that goes well and you still feel ambitious have at it. But I think the factory knew what it was doing when it used vinyl on the dash, besides the cost savings.
Tom Lains
 
Aloha,

I recently recovered my dash. I used vinyl and agree with the earlier advise. I used a product from NAPA, vinyl trim adhesive as a glue. It seems to me a little more forgiving than contact glue because you can make adjustments to the vinyl if needed. It takes about 12 to 24 hours to set up. I found that inexpensive vinyl door edge guards (about $3 for a pair about 24 inches long) make excellent clamps to hold the vinyl in place until the glue drys. Just press them over the vinyl and metal edge of the facia. Since the top edge is hidden by the dash rail, I just left the clamp in place. The in the area around the steering column I made metal U clamp to tight fit hold the covering in place. I painted the metal black to match the steering column. Good luck.

Safety Fast,
Dave
 
I too used vinyl and agree it should be easier to work than leather. That said, a couple of thoughts...

The cover I used most recently (Moss) had a stitched bit that formed the curved area above the steering column -- made it a very good fit there with no tucks or puckers.

I only glued around the edges (I think that was the original method) but with leather this may not be practical.

When covering the compound curves of the dogleg trim bits (capping just behind the doors) in leather I found that soaking the leather in water for several hours and using a heat gun (low heat, hair dryer would probably also do) made the leather much easier to stretch & fit.
 
Oh, one other thought... don't think you can cut the hole for the cubby box and use that piece to cover the cubby box door. The hole needs to leave quite a bit of excess to fold in & around the box opening so you need enough leather for the dash plus a piece for the glovebox door. Maybe this is obvious.
 
Well, I got the dash done. It's in leather, and it wasn't all that difficult to work with. I'd like to thank all of you for your input, especially Don Elliott and PSUTR3B who mentioned the section of the TR3 Restoration guide dealing with the dash. DOH!! I have that book, but don't refer to it often enough. Anyway, it was a fun job that had it's moments, but I'm pretty happy with the results. I have some SLIGHT wrinkling in the bottom curves of the lower part of the dash at the outer extremities, but everything else is nice and tight.
 
Your workmanship with the red vinyl looks really nice to me. I also had a few wrinkles and only once (way back in 1992) did I ever lose points at either a TRA or a VTR National judged concours because of the wrinkles.

Now for a related question. I'm restoring a late TR3A (TS 81551 L) and I'm about ready to re-install the coving trim above the top of the dashboard. I took it apart 7 years ago and need some info about the Lift-The-Dot pegs that go along the top of the coving. I found 8 with wood screw threads on the bottom that seem to fit nicely into the existing holes.

Won't these protruding sharp screw ends hit the metalwork and scratch the surface of the new paint ? If so, won't these ends also force the front top edge of the coving to remain lifted up off the painted bodywork ? Or do I leave it back a bit where the screws are out of the way ?

After 7 years and at my age, I think I'm starting to suffer from "Alka Selter" disease. Well I forget the correct name for that forgetfulness disease.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, TS 27489 LO It'll be 48 years this coming May.

https://www.triumphest2006.com/images/clubcars/30donelliott'str3.jpg
 
I just went in the garage and looked at the body on the TR3 (post 60k) body. There are holes in the top of the panel where the trim covering goes that, looks to me, correspond to the lift the dot holes in the trim panel. However, my trim panel is from a pre 60k TR, so the holes toward the outer edges are slightly off. Anybody ever run into this??

After finishing the dash and seats, I'm ready to do the cockpit trim. Now I have this mis-matched hole dilemma. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

If you need a picture of these holes Don, let me know, I'll e-mail it or post it back here.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...at my age, I think I'm starting to suffer from "Alka Selter" disease. Well I forget the correct name for that forgetfulness disease.

[/ QUOTE ]

Or as we say in my (seniors) neighborhood -- you've been hit with "Al's Hammer". On my 59 TR3A (47905L) there were holes in the sheet metal that corresponded to the holes in the capping... indeed, this is what held the capping on. Could you have had holes that got welded up during the resto? That's what happened to the holes in mine for the license plate light and TRIUMPH logo.
 
On the early TR3As, the pegs for the tonneaux cover screw right through the coping above the dashboard and into the wood just under the sheetmetal. But there are no holes on the metalwork on TS 81551 L, at least not after the bodyman did the final finishing. Did his finishing compound and paint cover them over ? The 2 holes for the mirror are nicely visible.
 
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