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The above was posted a few weeks ago but a search did not find it. I have the wires through the stator tube and it down the column. I have the olive and nut for the bottom. What is the procedure to properly position the head before tightening the nut? Anything else to do on top?
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TR2/3/3A TR3 Control Head Install
- Thread starter oxendine
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6TTR3A
Jedi Warrior
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<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #003300">These instructions are for a non-adjusting steering wheel. Position the stator tube so that the slot at the steering wheel end is at 12 o'clock.(straight up) position. Olive loose. Set screws in the steering wheel hub backed off. It's a good idea to have the steering wheel in the straight up position also. If the control head is an aftermarket one, make sure that it will fit in the steering wheel base. Sometimes the attachment plate is too large a diameter & wont seat all the way past the set screws. Leave the stator tube loose enough so that when you set the control head in place the stator tube bottoms out on the head assembly and the stamped "key" fits over stator tube and into the stator tube slot. Now tighten the olive. Next remove the control heat to make sure that the stator slot was tightened in the 12 o'clock position. Before resetting the control head be sure that the return guide at the bottom of the control head is in the 6 o'clock position. VERY IMPORTANT (see photo. Tighten the set screws in the steering wheel hub and you're good to go ! What I do is jack up the front wheels and static test the return mechanism. FRank </span></span>
6TTR3A
Jedi Warrior
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<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #003300">I guess I should proof read this stuff before I send it. It SHOULD read "Next, VERY IMPORTANT (see photo)Before resetting the control head be sure that the return guide at the bottom of the control head is in the 6 o'clock position. Once that's done,tighten the set screws in the steering wheel hub and you're good to go ! ,etc,etc
FRank </span></span>
FRank </span></span>
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I do it somewhat differently: Push the tube up high enough that you can make sure the head is engaged with the slot before it touches the steering wheel (after having made sure the finger for the cancellation ring is at the bottom). Make sure the steering wheel is centered, and hold the control head with the turn lever pointing straight up (in the center position), then push the head down into the wheel (which will also push the tube out through the steering box). The head should go down until it almost touches the wheel (no more than 1/8", mine is about 1/16"). If not, pull it back up, resolve the problem, and start over. Once the head is in place, immediately tighten the 3 grub screws. Now you don't have to worry about the wheel getting turned while you go about tightening the gland nut, connecting the wires, etc.
If doing this with an adjustable wheel, start by adjusting the wheel as close to the dash as possible, so the stator tube winds up in the right place. After locking the stator tube, you can adjust the wheel back out to check on the wires.
If doing this with an adjustable wheel, start by adjusting the wheel as close to the dash as possible, so the stator tube winds up in the right place. After locking the stator tube, you can adjust the wheel back out to check on the wires.
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The set screws are the "grub" screws that go laterally thru the steering wheel hub and lock the plate on the head in place against the bosses inside the wheel hub.
Bob
Bob
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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My method is to incorporate a pull wire into the other wires. Stagger the ends of the wires so that they present the smallest diameter possible. Then wrap the last 4" or so of the harness in electrical tape. Using as little as possible in a spiral fashion.
Run the free end of the pull wire down the tube then pull --gently.
In extreme cases I have had to remove the bullet connectors from the harness and do the above.
Charley
Run the free end of the pull wire down the tube then pull --gently.
In extreme cases I have had to remove the bullet connectors from the harness and do the above.
Charley
mastaphixa
Jedi Trainee
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How would the procedure be different for the adjustable wheel?
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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I had the adjustable wheel on the TR3B. I do not recall any differences in this procedure.
Charley
Melton Hefner
Freshman Member
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The three grub screws around the steering wheel lock the mechanism in place but the horn& signal part still rotates around. How can I keep it from turning ?
CJD
Yoda
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The horn is prevented from turning by the olive nut on the steering gear, where the wires come out. The olive uses a split washer to grab the tube, which in turn, grabs the horn assembly to prevent it from turning with the wheel.
Unfortunately, it is more common for the stator tube to crack and break at the top than it is for the olive to cause a problem. If the stator is broken, it must be replaced.
Unfortunately, it is more common for the stator tube to crack and break at the top than it is for the olive to cause a problem. If the stator is broken, it must be replaced.