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TR2/3/3A TR3 cockpit - summer heat!

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NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
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All the responses to my "long trip in a TR" thread have moved me to the next step.

Once the outdoor temps hit 80F, I find my right leg almost becomes a "crispy critter" once the engine warms up. The tunnel could double as a George Foreman grill.

I've added insulation material under the jute and carpet, but you can still (almost) fry an egg on that transmission tunnel.

What have you long-distance drivers done to control the cockpit heat in hot weather?

Other topics dealing with this issue have suggestions that are all over the ballpark. There seems to be no really effective insulating material to use, and/or very successful methods of reducing the cockpit heat. I even found several posts recommending a well-known insulating padding to control heat - but it's advertised only as controlling sound and vibration!

Thanks.
Tom
 
Asbestos sheets that are used for fireplace inserts can be used on the trans. side of the tunnel. It is thin and can be formed to fit the tunnel. Just be aware of the side effects of asbestos and be sure to handle it properly.
 
Intuitive and random thoughts: the best material would be the stuff that's like bubble-wrap with aluminum foil on both sides. Reasons are:

1. The transmission-side tinfoil reflects heat from the gearbox, then
2. The bubble wrap has air pockets in it which give some insulation (R-value), then
3. The tinfoil on the driver side would have fairly low emissivity, so what heat makes it through from the gearbox is less likely to be radiated into the passenger compartment.

Also, you would want to do a very thorough job of covering the gearbox tunnel (firewall to forward U-joint), and also consider doing the firewall as well. Maybe even the floor - especially over the exhaust.

There are perhaps others here with more direct experience or even measured temperature deltas.
 
Thanks for the ideas gents.

Any other suggestions? - or things you've done to reduce cockpit heat in the summer? Particularly heat from the tunnel, firewall, and floors.

After 10-15 minutes of driving, that firewall (and tunnel) gets really hot. Firewall holes are closed up, but the steel itself it too hot to touch. The dynamat I've seen referred to in other posts is actually advertised as sound insulation - not thermal insulation. I suppose it's better than nothing, but there must be a better solution for under the carpet.

What thermal insulation works for you guys who drive in "warm temps"?

Tom
 
The insulation I use is (synthetic) felt, with fiberglass strands and aluminum foil on one side. I first saw it at the swap meet, being sold for firewall insulation, but I also found it in Home Depot as water heater insulation.

I don't see it on the HD web site now, but this looks like the same stuff:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/thermoguard.php

Seems to work pretty good, the carpet stays relatively cool even when the metal is too hot to touch.
 
Here in SoCal, where it's not too hot, I hate to say I don't notice any extreme temperatures in the cockpit of my '3.....
 
mrv8q said:
Here in SoCal, where it's not too hot, I hate to say I don't notice any extreme temperatures in the cockpit of my '3.....
Click to expand...

That's OK, I'm sure you'll get it running soon!

:jester:
 
Just came back from a awesome show in Tiburon. The temp today is about 105' . The TR ran at about 200'. With the heater on. It was about 65miles and it never got real hot but the cockpit did get up to 117' with my heat gun while running at 75 mph. It's hot but tolarable because I am in a TR3!!
 
TR3driver said:
That's OK, I'm sure you'll get it running soon!
Click to expand...

roflmao.gif


!
 
NutmegCT said:
That's OK, I'm sure you'll get it running soon!
Click to expand...
Nope, thankfully, runs good! Actually, some mornings, I wish the heater worked better.
 
Calvin Grannis has used Lizard Skin on his TR6. He told me the vendor painted a pan on one side with heat resistant Lizard Skin and heated the pan on the stove. He put ice cubes on each half, and the one on the Lizard Skin side did not melt while the one on the plain side did. Calvin said the vendor then picked up the ice cube and put his hand on the pan. Calvin said that is what sold him on the product. I can not vouch for it personally, but I believe him to be an upstanding guy.
 
I gotta side with mrv8q, here. Yeah, it gets <span style="font-style: italic">warm,</span> but not HOT, like Nutmeg describes. Here's my tip: Nothing that opening the scuttle vent can't handle.

And, yes Randall, I did laugh. Good one!
 
Tom: Neither of my cars become unbearable as you have described. Is there anything non-standard about your exhaust system or the way it's routed? IMO, it really shouldn't get that hot. :nonod:

BTW, how's your garden doing this year? :banana:
 
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