• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Bulkhead Carpet

Share this page

ckeithjordan

ckeithjordan

Jedi Trainee
Silver
Country flag
Offline
The last piece of carpet to replace in my TR3 is the bulkhead piece over the transmission tunnel. It's a JF Skinner kit. I'm going to have to cut openings for the tachometer cable, temperature capillary tube and the throttle on the driver's side. I have a couple of questions before I proceed:

1. There are two wire harness bendable hook/clips in the narrow "slot" between the battery box and the firewall. This is where the wire harness runs from the split behind the right-side harness exit (to the regulator, fuse box, RS lighting, etc.), to the left-side harness exit (wiper motor, coil and LS wiring, etc.) and also down to the dipper switch. Do I run the wire harness first, then cover it with the carpet, or perhaps cut slits where the clips are, attach the carpet, then run the harness in front of the carpet through the clips?

2. How to attach the carpet? Just glue along the top edges and allow to "hang" down? I know the bottom finished edge drapes the top of the carpet on the tunnel. If I cut the slits they would act as hangers for the carpet and the items passing through the holes, along with the footwell bulkhead pieces (hanging themselves from clips) would possibly keep it in place.

Any other ideas?
 
There are factory clips that will hold the carpet on the firewall; TRF sells them 2 on each side. Your 1957 should have had wool carpet. The penetrations that go through the carpet can be tricky and it would not hurt to use some cheap stuff for a template. I use a punch for leather on the holes and slit the carpet after I punch the hole. You find them at leather craft stores. They come from about Âľ down to a 1/8. Some small dabs of contact cement work good also. I have tried the spray glue, but it is kinda messy. There is the gas pedal, oil line, water temp line, choke and few others somewhere.
steve
 
Thanks. I know the clips you're talking about and I have them holding up the vertical foot-well carpet pieces (and yes, the carpet is wool). The ones I'm referring to are the bendable metal ones that are welded about the car body. I did some more checking today and determined that they are way up at the top of that slot/opening, so that tells me to go ahead and put the harness in through there, then glue the carpet after that.

I do use a leather punch to make the holes for pass-through items, then slits if necessary. It makes for a neater application. I'm also using Weldwood contact cement, which holds very well.

IMG_5392.jpg
 
The wire is installed first, and then the carpet. The original carpet used small dabs of glue, but I have been able to get by without any glue, except on the rear wheel well covers. Everything else uses screws, clips, or snaps. So far I have yet to have a piece come loose.
 
Oh I hear you better now--- yes those “tabs” up in behind the battery box. I have in the past cut some of those T out of sheet metal and JB glued them in. I did that for the new OD harness under the battery box. Heck everything was painted before I realized I missed it. The wirers are still there held up by JB on the T, and it looks stock. Funny thing for years on my driver that I purchased in the early 70ites, I wondered why there was one of those T deals underneath the battery box. Well I waited long enough and found out.
steve
 
You said that is a J Skinner carpet kit. My one came as a one piece transmission tunnel carpet not in several pieces as yours appears to be. Could be the difference between wool and nylon sets.
I put the wires in first held by the "T" clips then the bulkhead carpet. There is a hole I had to cut for the accelerator pedal stop. Used some glue along the top edge and the bottom edge was held by the transmission tunnel carpet which was edged not a raw edge like the bulk head piece.

David
 
Yes a few dabs of contact cement along the top of the bulkhead carpet should be enough to hold it. I got a bit carried away and glued most of it and the first time I took the gear box out I had to pull it all off to get to the tunnel bolts out.

Graham
P1010208.jpg
 
David, the carpeting for the early TR2-3s (mine’s a 1957) was cut-pile wool and the transmission tunnel was comprised of multiple pieces. When the -3A came out in late 1957 (as a 1958 model), the wool was replaced by loop nylon and simplified.

Thanks to all. It’s become apparent to follow the advice of putting in the harness first and then installing the carpet. The tabs up at the top of the “slot” between the firewall and the battery box will hold the harness up out of view, then the carpet can be glued along the top after cutting holes for the accelerator, tach cable and capillary tube. As I don’t have a tab on the underside of the battery box for the OD wiring, I’ll run it up to one of those tabs in the “slot” so it will be out of the way. It then will be behind the loosely-glued carpet.
 
I think you may regret gluing anything - bear in mind that you may have to get in there again soon, hopefully not that soon. I used press studs to hold my Skinner carpet kit in place, where necessary.You shouldn’t have to cut any thing at all, at least I didn’t on my 3A.

james



to
 
Back
Top