TR2/3/3A TR3 bridged calipers

[TexasKnucklehead]

To get my pistons out I made a air tool. I used the end of one of the old rubber brake hoses, and soldered a bicycle tube valve to it (I don't have a compressor). I put the tool where a line would go, pumped it to 120 lbs and waited. Then I used a pipe wrench to rotate the exposed edge of the piston. All four came out pretty easily. They wouldn't budge after a week of PBblaster soaking inside and out, with the rubber boot picked completly away.

So while I was waiting for new pistons to arrive, I cleaned up and painted the calipers with ceramic paint. The cylinder walls were starting to rust so I greased them. To remove the grease, I used carb cleaner, which took the ceramic paint off. I decided it looks more original with the paint removed anyway.

Assuming I'm going with DOT5/synthetic brake fluid, I assume I need to be sure all the grease is removed. I also assume I should lubricate the new seals with DOT5 during assembly?

 

[martx-5]

Definitely make sure you get every remnant of grease out of the caliper. The final cleanup should by with one of those Brake Clean products, as they will not leave any residues behind like carb cleaner will. There are two grooves in the caliper bores, one for the square section piston seal, and a thinner one up top for the boot lip. Make sure both are very clean. A dental pick or machinist scribe can be used, as the top groove is very thin, and if not cleaned thoroughly, you will never get the boot to seat in there properly. Minor pitting on the bore has no effect on function, as the seal rides on the surface of the piston...which will be new in your case. As long as the seal groove looks good, you'll be good to go. Assemble with whatever brake fluid you're using.

 

[TR3driver]

Assuming I'm going with DOT5/synthetic brake fluid, I assume I need to be sure all the grease is removed. I also assume I should lubricate the new seals with DOT5 during assembly?

Yes, definitely, both counts.