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TR2/3/3A TR3 Body Shell Restoration Progress
- Thread starter mallard
- Start date
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Silverghost
Yoda
Offline
That's looking really good!! Looks really clean! And what is the large car in the background?
Tinkerman
Darth Vader
Offline
Looking great, Mallard, imagine you will be anxios to get it home and start working on it!
I'm with Peter, what's in the background? Looks like a late 29's early 30's something or other. Kind of looks like a '31 business coupe I owned back in the early 60's.
Tinkerman
I'm with Peter, what's in the background? Looks like a late 29's early 30's something or other. Kind of looks like a '31 business coupe I owned back in the early 60's.
Tinkerman
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Mallard,
A couple of questions for you as I am pretty close to sending the body out on my TR3A for the same process.
1. What type of media was used? Soda or something else?
2. Cost to have this done (You don't have to answer if you don't want too).
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
A couple of questions for you as I am pretty close to sending the body out on my TR3A for the same process.
1. What type of media was used? Soda or something else?
2. Cost to have this done (You don't have to answer if you don't want too).
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
M.Pied Lourd,
He uses 120 grit aluminum oxide. It's a very sharp cutting material that reduces striping time to prevent damage to the metal. Most important is to find someone that works on cars not heavy equipment or heavy guage steel. Soda will leave a film behind that has to be removed. Ask for recommendations in your area from the local car clubs or go online. You will have to remove any undercoating yourself. Blasting will not remove it. Also try to get all the seamsealer off. $350.00 was the cost.
After you get it done please let me know the areas that had factory lead. Mine had it at the top and bottom of the deck lid on the body, and on the B Posts. Also at the seam above the rear tire. Also blasting will not remove the lead. It's up to you if you want it removed. I will remove mine and replace with USC All Metal.
Good Luck
Have Fun
He uses 120 grit aluminum oxide. It's a very sharp cutting material that reduces striping time to prevent damage to the metal. Most important is to find someone that works on cars not heavy equipment or heavy guage steel. Soda will leave a film behind that has to be removed. Ask for recommendations in your area from the local car clubs or go online. You will have to remove any undercoating yourself. Blasting will not remove it. Also try to get all the seamsealer off. $350.00 was the cost.
After you get it done please let me know the areas that had factory lead. Mine had it at the top and bottom of the deck lid on the body, and on the B Posts. Also at the seam above the rear tire. Also blasting will not remove the lead. It's up to you if you want it removed. I will remove mine and replace with USC All Metal.
Good Luck
Have Fun
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Keith,
Thanks for the info. I have a reference for a guy close to me that was given to me by by the owner of a local British Sportscar Shop. Thanks for sharing what you paid for the stripping. It will give me something to compare it to when I get a quote.
I am going to prep the body as well as I can. I know what you mean about the undercoating and seam sealer, I removed every square inch of it during the restoration of my 73 TR6.
What are your plans for the wings/bonnet/boot and doors? Are you having them blasted as well?
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
Thanks for the info. I have a reference for a guy close to me that was given to me by by the owner of a local British Sportscar Shop. Thanks for sharing what you paid for the stripping. It will give me something to compare it to when I get a quote.
I am going to prep the body as well as I can. I know what you mean about the undercoating and seam sealer, I removed every square inch of it during the restoration of my 73 TR6.
What are your plans for the wings/bonnet/boot and doors? Are you having them blasted as well?
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
Silverghost
Yoda
Offline
Maybe it's the perspective of your TR in front of that older coupe, but that looks too big to be a Ford. Height of the windows, width of the belt line, length of the roof, looks like a Packard, Cadillac, Franklin type body to me. Show the pic to the guys at the shop, let us know! 
My buddy is doing a TR2 and will have the body <span style="font-weight: bold">sand</span> blasted. I know, I know. Dangerous, but in the proper hands, is very effective. He wants to know what weak metal he has, and has to repair. Sand will get down to business real quick. Just gotta know how to use it. Not for everybody.