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What I did was, grind, paint strip, and sand blast the apron. I miged up any tares in the metal and filled in other spots with mig welding. I used epoxy primer on both sides and then started filling in the small dents with glazing putty. I am kinda ok with what I am doing, but never did it before, anyways the paint store suggested I put another coat of epoxy primer on and then paint the filler primer on so the filler primer bonds better to the epoxy. Their point being the epoxy primer after 5 days or so might reject the regular primer. It makes sense, but I want some other opinions.
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TR2/3/3A tr3 apron
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CJD
Yoda
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As a general rule...
You can paint over the epoxy primer without any other prepping if you do it in the same day.
If you have waited overnight, the epoxy primer will have to be completely roughed with sand paper (200-400 grit), or scotch bright pads, before you spray anything on top.
Other than that, I don't think you'll have any problems with bonding. You probably know already, but it's a good idea to use one color for the base primer, and a different color primer for additional coats. That way as you wet sand the upper layers, the base color acts as a "tell" to let you know you are getting close to the bare metal. That way you know when to stop sanding that layer.
It helps to plan the top layer primer color to be compatible with the color you plan to paint the car. In other words, black primer if the car will be black or dark green. Grey primer for silver or blue. Red primer for red, and white primer for white. That helps when you go to spray the final paint, to cover with fewer/thinner coats.
You can paint over the epoxy primer without any other prepping if you do it in the same day.
If you have waited overnight, the epoxy primer will have to be completely roughed with sand paper (200-400 grit), or scotch bright pads, before you spray anything on top.
Other than that, I don't think you'll have any problems with bonding. You probably know already, but it's a good idea to use one color for the base primer, and a different color primer for additional coats. That way as you wet sand the upper layers, the base color acts as a "tell" to let you know you are getting close to the bare metal. That way you know when to stop sanding that layer.
It helps to plan the top layer primer color to be compatible with the color you plan to paint the car. In other words, black primer if the car will be black or dark green. Grey primer for silver or blue. Red primer for red, and white primer for white. That helps when you go to spray the final paint, to cover with fewer/thinner coats.
No, I did not know about the primer and it sounds like a good idea to use different colors. I keep sanding through all time. I got a can of that shadow stuff to show the low spots, but have not used it. I did hood with gray primmer after I put the black epoxy on and sanded it between coats with 400 because I left a bunch of scratches from the grinder. The hood was perfect until I got a hold of it, but in the end it came out nice after I sanded with 400 and painted, and sanded with 400and painted…..I really enjoy doing the work; I wish I would have started younger.
Here is why I wonder about these paint stores. They tell me the only color primmer comes in now is gray.
Here is why I wonder about these paint stores. They tell me the only color primmer comes in now is gray.
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
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I'm no expert, but just a suggestion. Make sure you get a tech sheet with the products you are using. It will generally tell you everything you need to know about re coating times and sanding scratch requirements etc if you need to re coat outside of the window. I found that epoxy primers vary widely in their "open" times....everything from a few hours to 24 hours to 10 days...you need to get the info directly from the manufacturer. Either the paint store can provide it or you can usually find it on the Internet.
Here is an example. I use Matrix products. Here is their white epoxy primer tech sheet.
https://www.matrixsystem.com/docs/tech/MP-Epoxy TDS.pdf
Cheers
Tush
Here is an example. I use Matrix products. Here is their white epoxy primer tech sheet.
https://www.matrixsystem.com/docs/tech/MP-Epoxy TDS.pdf
Cheers
Tush