• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Aftermarket Door Seals that work?

Share this page

newmexTR3

newmexTR3

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
Anyone had luck purchasing the rubber door seals for a 3A from one of the big 3 that actually fit?

I purchased some a couple months ago from TRF and installed them this weekend on one door. The door will not shut now without brute force. (They are asymmetrical seals, so for giggles I tried installing them both ways- to no avail.) Obviously something is wrong...

I discussed this with Art and he said that he too had the same problem and ended up going without the seals.

Art- where did you get yours?

How about the Landrums- you guys just redid your 3- did your seals fit? If so, where did you get them?

Cheers,
Gavin
 
I'm pretty sure that I got mine from TRF also, as I bought most of the interior stuff from them. BTW, I bought them a couple of years ago, so it doesn't look like they've changed them. :hammer:
 
I bought rubber seals for the TR3 doors from TRF
Front (fender-scuttle-dash) seal: works fine.
Door bottom: works fine.
B post seal: I've never seen one on a TR3. It doesn't look like I can squeeze it in, so I haven't tried.
 
Aren't you being a little picky? How can we expect a seal that works AND allows you to shut the door?
I'd call your supplier.
I was at a shop last week where they are working on a 3. The worker asked me the same question. They bought theirs from a different supplier with the same results.
I'm guessing that what you got is the closest shape available to original. We will probably be seeing more of these problems with replacement parts.
Between a suffering economy and low production numbers on our cars could present problems for us.
 
I had the same problem with the new seals for the bottom of the doors for my 1958 TR3A in 1989. So I left them off. You don't need them.
 
Maybe if installed and door slammed and allowed to remain shut for some time, the seals would assume the correct shape.
A little heat with a heat gun or hair dryer pryor to slamming might aid in the shape assumption.
If it doesn't work, are you any worse off?
 
Don Elliott said:
I had the same problem with the new seals for the bottom of the doors for my 1958 TR3A in 1989. So I left them off. You don't need them.
Click to expand...

Don: didn't you mention at one time that you tried to force the doors shut and that when closed the doors actually were pushed out at the bottom. We will be trying this soon and I will try to provide some detailed photos.

fja
 
bgbassplyr said:
Maybe if installed and door slammed and allowed to remain shut for some time, the seals would assume the correct shape.
Click to expand...

Nope, I've had the passenger side seal on for 3 years now, and it's still hard to close; these were from MOSS. I missed the nice, gentle <span style="font-style: italic">snick</span> so much, I left them off the driver's side door.....
 
The only problem with leaving them off is that the doors will rattle when you drive over a bump. So I put on several clear soft vinyl buttons which have adhesive backs. You find these "bumpers" in any hardware store. They prevent your patio door from crashing when you open it sideways with too much force. Or you find them on the bottom of your dining room chairs so the feet don't scratch the floor.

Keep it simple.
 
Back
Top