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TR2/3/3A TR3/4 Water Pumps - Anyone have the ebay rebuilder contact info?

TR4nut

Yoda
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I'm still struggling with temp issues in my 3A - especially with current weather in Houston. I am suspicious that I don't have the best water pump in place - right now its one of those multivane new design ones (sorry don't know if its 5 or 6 vane at the moment.

At highway speeds I've noticed that I actually run hotter at higher rpms - the engine will drop in temp if I drop from say 3000-3500 rpm to 2500-3000. Can't think of a reason for that other than potential pump cavitation at the higher revs.

At idling speeds the engine eventually will overheat, especially now in the summer. Reading through past information from other owners I think it may be the rotor design, not having as good of clearances set up with the main pump body.

Bottom line I'd like to try a brass impeller pump - at one time a rebuilder on ebay was offering rebuilt original pumps, zerk fittings and all. A little pricey so I didn't bite - but now I'm interested. Unfortunately I don't see them on ebay any more - anyone happen to know who was rebuilding those pumps and if they still might be available?

Thanks
Randy
 
I got one of those pumps off ebay. It was expensive at $169.00. It's on the car but is still untested. It looks completely original as it should. It came from East Coast Jaguar in Wilmington Delaware 302 475 7200 the guys name was John.
 
Perfect Keith - thanks!
 
I've got one of those pumps on my TR3. It seems to work fine. He uses modern sealed bearings in his build. The zerk is there purely for appearance -- not to be used.
 
A water pump either works or it doesn't. Before you go spending money on new pump you probably don't need, I think you should check timing, and if it is running lean. Since this is at highway speeds then engine if fairly loaded, so it could also be something like a partially plugged fuel pump not keeping up with what the engine needs.
I just has a problem with the hose attached to the gas tank, with a small leak. turns out the pump was pulling some air. When I changed it the air fuel mixture suddenly became somewhat richer. (and the trunk no longer stinks)
 
A water pump either works or it doesn't. Before you go spending money on new pump you probably don't need, I think you should check timing, and if it is running lean. Since this is at highway speeds then engine if fairly loaded, so it could also be something like a partially plugged fuel pump not keeping up with what the engine needs.
I just has a problem with the hose attached to the gas tank, with a small leak. turns out the pump was pulling some air. When I changed it the air fuel mixture suddenly became somewhat richer. (and the trunk no longer stinks)

Actually I've gone through quite a bit already on the car - I don't think it is any one thing that gives the overheating issue, trying to run a 3A in humid 95+F Houston weather is indeed asking a lot. But I respectfully disagree about a water pump either working or not. Pumps have efficiencies, and I know by comparing an original leaky pump with a bronze impellor with an aftermarket pump and cast iron impeller the bronze impeller is larger - I believe it likely has better tolerances to the pump body with the impeller and I would bet (with nothing to back it up) that it had better efficiency than the newer offerings - main thing being better flow at low rpms. Anyway that is what I'd like to test to see if I can improved things.
 
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