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TR2/3/3A TR2-TR3-TR3A Top Question

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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Can someone please tell me the difference between TR2-Tr3 and TR3A Convertible tops and frames. I have a 59 TR3A and ordered a new top but, the seams
do not line up with the second or third bows of the frame. Could I have gotten a TR2-Tr3 top by mistake?
Thanks
Greg
 

Moseso

Jedi Knight
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The top bows are the same through the whole run of TR2, 3, 3A & B. The differences are in the windows (one in the TR2 -- three, later) and the snap fasteners used to attach to the windscreen.

The reason your bows do not line up with the seams in your new top is that it's a different top than the last one. The webbing will have to be adjusted to make the bows line up with the seams in your new top. They aren't all the same.

How big is the difference? Are they off by less than an inch, or inches?
 

Twosheds

Darth Vader
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You will need to adjust the webbing attachment to the top bows to get the bows to align with the seams on the new top. I use the Trial and Error Method. Or Trial and Success Method.
 
OP
mountainman

mountainman

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Moseso, I adjusted the bow closes to the rear to fit the first seam. The 2nd and 3th are off by about 6" to long[toward the front] Shouldn't the bows be completely open. I mean lock into each other?
Thanks
Greg
 

luke44

Jedi Warrior
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Hi Greg - I'm following this thread with interest. can you post pix of the frame w/o top, and then one with?
 

Moseso

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mountainman said:
Shouldn't the bows be completely open. I mean lock into each other?
Thanks
Greg
No. They shouldn't go all the way out til they lock. The webs will hold them in the right places -- where the seams are.

My top fitting procedure was to fit all the snaps to the top, all the way around --
Then, measure from the stud hole to the first seam, first seam to second seam & second seam to third seam -- all out near the inner ends of the seams, nearest where the webs will actually be --
Set the webs to the bows, using these measurements --
Erect the top and note how far off you are -- if you've done the measuring well, it will be pretty close, but you still might need to adjust 1/2" one way or the other.

NOTE: I found the TRF webbing (I don't know about anyone else's) to be impossibly stretchy. I discarded it and used a nylon webbing that I had bought at a surplus store ages ago. It's heavier gauge, and doesn't stretch. WYSIWYG measurements.
 
OP
mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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Moses, I am alittle confused. If you don't spread the frame all the way out to"lock into itself " what keeps it from folding back and down?
Greg

Luke, my wife has my camera so when she get's home I'll post a pict.
 

Moseso

Jedi Knight
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Top bows erect:
The web to the middle bow affects where it rotates to when locked open (that one must lock) on the pivot screw at the attachment bracket. Note the "air gap" between the end of the third bow and where it would rest against the middle bow.
 

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Moseso

Jedi Knight
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I realized I might have caused this confusion -- does my last post clear it up? The middle bow, as you realize, must lock open.

Procedure for erecting the top -- in case you haven't heard this one...

Pull up the top bows -- but do NOT pull the center bow all the way up and locked.
Snap the top on, all the way around.
Pull up on the center bow, at the locking joint, until it snaps home.
This is more easily said than done, with a new top -- or a cold top. Two people, one on each side of the car, can be a real aid to this part of the process.
 
OP
mountainman

mountainman

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Thanks Moseso, The pictures helped alot. Now I see how it should work. Did I understand that you put all the lift the dot and tenx fasteners on the top first just spacing them between each post and then did the frame?
Greg
 

Moseso

Jedi Knight
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Yes. My top (an NOS Amco, via eBay) had the Tenax fasteners already on. I added the LTDs to the rear, and then set the webbing on my bows.
Erect the top -- observe how the bows line-up with the seams -- remove the top -- adjust the webbing/bows -- repeat as necessary.
As John says, trial-and-error.
In my trade, it's called "cut-and-try." Fortunately, no cutting is involved here -- til it's all proved out. Then you can cut away any excess webbing.
 

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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Great thread guys! This one is going into my BCF notes for use when I get to that point.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
OP
mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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Hey Dick join me in thanking Moseso he inlighten us on fitting the bows and top. THANKS Moseso
Greg
 
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