• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR2 apron on a TR3B?

TimCornish

Freshman Member
Offline
Just purchased a great running TR3B, but decided I much prefer the clean lines of the TR2's. I'm considering switching to a TR2 front apron (remove the original for resale) and was wondering if anyone knew what other modifications I'd have to do in order to get the fit right. The car's currently signal red, and if I decide for the change, I think I'd repaint it jet black. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Originality and re-sale value are of no concern here.

Tim Cornish
Baltimore

late TR3B (Red)
early TR4 (sorta' rust colored)
R1150R BMW
 
It should bolt right on. I would hold on to the 3A/B apron for when you decide to sell the car. Chances are you will have more difficulty selling the car with an incorrect apron. People might want the original and/or they will think the car has been wrecked.
A good TR2/3 apron is a little hard to come by. Do you have a lead on one? I may know of a nice one, but not certain if it is for sale.
 
Have not done this but would think some sheet metal tweaking will certainly be needed to make it work.

There were variations from one car to the next but more significantly the TR3B pressings were from new tooling laid down in 1959 so you are at the extremes of any change that occurred.

As for the change -- You may also get some feedback on the choice but (obviously) it's your car to enjoy as you wish.

Do you already have the TR2 apron you will use? Personally I thought the more recessed headlamps of the later aprons gave a cleaner line but from a head-on view the small mouth of the '2 is good looking.
 
I was thinking salvage at first, but the Roadster Factory has new aprons for sale. If it was just a bolt-on switch, I might keep the original, but would sell it if significant modifications were involved. If someone has a good used one, I'd certainly be interested.
Thanks.
 
It's a bolt on.
I've seen a few A's/B's with the TR2/3 apron. My '56 is a small mouth.
Given that it will still probably need some fitting as even a wide mouth would require that on your car, sheet metal match up on our cars always takes some tweaking.
You'll get more efficient cooling to boot.
 
If you were to use the "correct" L488 side/flasher lamps of the TR2, you would probably need to cut holes in the inner fenders of the 3B to accommodate their depth. If you stay with the L594 lamps, you should be ok there.

It's your car, and you've every right to do as you please. But I do think there's a bit of a risk in such a drastic (if easily reversible) modification to a 3B, especially if it is a correct, numbers-matching car. Of course, if it's already got a 4A engine and a 6 gearbox, R&P steering and/or other modifications, then.... :wink:
 
Don't forget you'll also need to swap frame extensions and front bumpers to the TR2/3 setup.
 
Aloha.

My experience based on new body panels after a collision and replacing the front cowl. You will need to add the cage nuts to the cowl. You will also probably need to do a bit of body work where the head light buckets extend from he cowl as they are jus weld in. As other have mentioned, since these cars bolt together bodies, you will need to do some adjustments to get a good fit. It is not difficult but may take some time and several fittings until you are satisfied.

Personally, I would choose the TR3 cowl over the TR2 cowl.
 
Thanks for all the input.
I guess I prefer the plain open mouth intake on a sportscar of this vintage (like the Jag D-type) more than the sparkling Cheshire cat grin of the 3A and 3B. No doubt there are strong opinions about this choice, but this car is a driver, and if I can get the look of the TR2 with a bolt-on replacement, I'll probably give it a try.
 
You could always take the grill out of the TR3 apron and reset the turn indicators into the inner fenders. That'd be a little different but probably more accepted as a "modification" than the common opinion of the other way, which whould be "trying to pass it off as a TR2"
Either way it would be best for future resale to keep all original parts stored somewhere.
Other than that, Make it your own. and enjoy.
 
Tim,
I changed my '59 over to a '2' look 30+ yrs. ago. Everybody has pretty well covered what you need to do. One thing you will find is that the early front end (at least an original) won't match with the later fenders. You will see about a 3/8" difference, that is your fenders will be that short with matching up to the bottom of the small mouth front end. Don't worry about it, apparently the factory didn't either at first. If you look at the factory parts book, they didn't start making things match for about 500 cars. The TR2-3 fenders were used until TS22530, but the TR3'A' front end (excuse me apron) started with TS22014.
Early on I kept an eye out for one of thse early cars, but this was pre VTR, TRA, british car days, etc, etc., but never saw one and hadn't really thought about it till your query. As someone else has mentioned for a good fit for the late model beehive lamps, make a wood concave dolly/anvil and ball peen a deeper indent into the inner fender for more clearance. Save that original front end if the rest of the car is original, it will add significantly to the value. (Even if you wife asks 'what's this doing in the attic?'.
 
Yes just like what was said, it will bolt on easily and it will help the car run cooler. I have done it. You will have to change the bumper because of the curve and the turning lights because the small mouth hits real close at the inner fender. I ended up drilling holes in the inner fender wells for the lights sockets right where the indents were for the original lights. You will need the little strap that pulls the front apron back also or it will hit the bumper brackets. Some people do not even put the bumper back on and I kinda like that look. The bumper is more like jewelry anyway.
 
My '57 had a wide mouth with no door handles or boot lid handle. I had to find a small mouth to make her right.

There is a "small mouth TR3a" that shows up at shows here in Northern California. The commission number is all wrong for a small mouth and it has door handles and the small commission number plate, but the owner claims that it is the way it is supposed to be.

Most people won't notice anything odd, but people who know the TR3 will. I ran mine without bumpers for a while because I liked the look, but I had no place for fog lamps and club badges. We fabricated some custom bumpers, very minimal.

no Bumper
DSC_0175Medium-full;crop:0.03,0.13,0.9,0.93.jpg


custom Bumper

2007BritishCarRoundup-full;init:.JPG


In the end its all about what you want.
 
Back
Top