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TR rear hub puller?

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Alan_Myers

Alan_Myers

Luke Skywalker
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Hi,

Does anyone know of a source for the special tool to remove the rear hubs on TR4s (and others)? I know a lot of folks have these pressed off with a 20 ton or greater press, but I also know there are quite a few hubs damaged that way.

Or, does anyone know of a hub puller that I might rent, beg, borrow or steal?

I've though about trying to make one out of an old wire wheel adapter I've got. But, that would involve some time to design and weld together. Plus, it would pull on the lug bolts. I'm not sure they are strong enough.

Thanks in advance for any info!

Alan
 
Here are some instructions on fabricating one. Top of the page "fabricating and using a TR2-6 hub puller" While reading through the instructions my eyes started glazing over because I haven't done it and I don't have the stuff in front of me to see what he's talking about.... So who knows if this will work or not. Take a look and let us know.

https://thelittlemacshop.com/trsite/download.html
 
Alan,

After reading about the potential problems in doing this yourself I decided that I could do it safely so I ordered all the bearings, seals and what-not. In looking a bit closer, I took the cowards way out and found a trusted machine shop that could so the work. We were living in Anchorage at the time, the owner said no problem, grabbed the hubs and my bag of parts and headed to the back with me in tow. An hour later and $30 lighter, I was on my way with two freshly rebuilt hub assemblies.

Not saying you can find the same deal today in San Jose, but it might be worth looking. . . . . . Peace of mind and all that.
 
Hello Alan,
firstly, I take it you have wire wheels, this is the part I'm not entirely sure about. However, if the wire wheel adaptors are bolted to the hub with 7\16"studs this should still work.
The next point is that the new bearings need careful assembly with a dial indicator as the end float has to be set between 2 and 4 thousandths of an inch. Over do that and you need to start again with a new collapsible spacer. This is the most critical part of doing a DIY hub overhaul.

What I use on my Triumph sedan, (same hub set up but not with wire wheels) is a heavy duty two leg puller. (Screw diameter is about 1") and a plain steel disc adapter that I bolt onto the hub using all four studs. Usually I have to screw it as tight as I can get then hit the screw hard with a heavy hammer. This usually shocks the taper off with a couple of hits. Don't try with a two or three leg puller using the claws, you will distort the hub flange.

But, all that effort will be wasted unless you have the tools to set the end float.

Alec
 
Alan - Are you in any of the local TR clubs? Some have acquired these to loan out to members. Here is what the beast usually looks like:
churchilltool1.JPG

churchilltool2.JPG
 
I brought mine to a machine shop that is known for high performance engine, etc. They mushroomed the threaded end one of the axles (solid axle 4A) and they are very hard to come by these days. They ended up sending the axle out to a crank guy who added new material and then rethreaded it by hand (Whitworth threads on the axle) and it appears good as new. I never found a tool in my searches but I would definitely try to make one before putting an axle in the press again.
 
Hi gang,

Lot's of good, instant feedback. Thanks!

No, I don't have wire wheels on this particular car. But I do have an old wire wheel adapter I was considering modifying into a homemade hub puller (the splines are too worn to use with wire wheels). In fact, the picture above is encouraging, because it's similar to the adapter, except the W/W adapter would need to be beefed up significantly.

Yes, I'm aware of the need to set the end float. This is a non-IRS car (live axle) so there isn't a collapsible spacer. On the earlier cars, it's somewhat easier also, because you can just pop out the whole axle to add or remove shims, after the new seals and bearings are installed and the hub is back in place. No need to remove the hub again. The shims are right behind the brake backing plate. And, yes, I have a dial indicator. On the solid axle cars it's 4 to 6 thousandths of clearance. And, it's important to equalize the shims, side to side.

Don, I'm very tempted to go to a machine shop and have the the hubs pressed off, as you suggest. It would be quicker and cheaper! The only reason I don't is I don't know of one that is experienced with TRs, and that's where problems can happen. I've heard a few horror stories of machine shops mangling the hubs in the process. Others have had no problem. Unfortunately, I don't know of a local shop that's experienced and done the job right in the past. I'd also like to have the tool handy, eventually, for use on my own and other TRs.

Alec, I don't have a puller similar to what you describe, but may have to get one to try since it's similar in principle to the hub puller shown. I was led to believe these hubs needed something more to pop them loose. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try! Yes, I agree, it would be a very bad idea to try to pull on the edge of the flange, instead the puller needs to be securely locked down on the wheel studs, at the thickest part of the hub.

Also, I'm not currently a member of the local TR club. I was briefly in the past, but meeting times were a problem for me and my TR was a long way from running (but inching closer to that day, now!).

Thanks again for the info.

Alan
 
It's not the shims that you need to get the same side to side, it's the end float. You should be OK just counting and reusing the same number of shims from each side that are there now. Don't mix them up. Peter (just did my entire rear-end)
 
Hello Alan,
I'm sorry, I misread your post, I could have sworn it was a TR6 you were referring to.

Alec
 
Hi Alec,

No problem! Thanks anyway, your info was largely relevant.

Peter, I just checked the manual and it says to set the end float, then equalize the shims side to side. Remember, this is a live or solid axle car, so the end float is the same play, whichever side it's measured on.

I've got 5 thousandths, at present, with the old bearings still in place. But I really need to replace the outer seals (thus need the hub puller or to make one of my own), and will likely put new bearings in at the same time.

Yes, you can count the shims, and I did. (They were equalized, too. Probably from the factory.) But, if you change the bearings, it's quite possible some change in shims will be needed.

I've been discussing making a hub removal tool with someone I located online, who makes a business of manufacturing NLA tools. I'll post more info if he decides to make the hub puller.

Cheers!

Alan
 
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