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TR6 TR-6 still not running right

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All versions have a cols start valve, starter box, whatever term you want to use..
You just said you thought you took the cold start valve apart...did you or not ?
If you did you may have put the disc back wrong.
In the left it is wrong on the right is the correct orientation.
 
I took the temperature compensator off but I didn't take it apart. Looking at a picture of the cold start valve I am fairly certain I didn't take it apart and I didn't take it off the carbs.
 
poolboy said:
All versions have a cols start valve, starter box, whatever term you want to use..
You just said you thought you took the cold start valve apart...did you or not ?
If you did you may have put the disc back wrong.
In the left it is wrong on the right is the correct orientation.
Click to expand...

This doesn't look familiar.
 
Forget about the brass adjustment screw with the spring..you would not have that. Otherwise, the starter boxes are all the same inside.
 
I didn't take the Temperature Compensator apart. Is that something I should have done? Could that be causing problems?
 
No, I would suggest NOT fooling with the Temp.Comp. There's nothing there that would cause what you are describing..neither the Throttle Bypass Valve.
Your problem seems to be getting the engine started.
Take look at this adjustment.
The choke is partially engaged. Notice the gap between "B4" and "SRZ".
Is the HEEL of your fast idle cam JUST beginning to TOUCH the HEAD of the fast idle adjustment screw in this position ?
 
I will have to look tonight. I won't be home until this evening. The choke does work once I finally got it started. I did get it started the day after I had it out and drove around. Maybe spraying the starter fluid into the fuel intake helped. I now have a starter problem that I will have to fix before I can try and get the car started again. One of the ears the wires plug into the solenoid has broke. I don't know if there is an easy fix but I do have another starter to try.
 
The one picture that looks likes yours is the rear carb and the other pic where it doesn't look like your picture is the front carb. Maybe that is my problem? If so how do I fix it? Sorry the pics are sideways.
 

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If the choke knob on you dash is in the exact same position for both of those pictures, your front carb is much more engaged than the front..
That being the case, the cable needs adjusting.
Push the choke knob fully closed.
Loosen the clip that is holding the front carb's choke cable to the bracket that is attached to the carb and let the fast idle cam come to rest against "AB". Then clip the choke cable back onto the bracket.
The fast idle cams for your carbs (SRZ) need to be synchronized .
So, pull the choke knob until the heel of the rear carbs fast idle cam is touching the head of the adjustment screw, then turn your attention to the front carb and the adjustment screw's contact with the fast idle cam.
Even if synchronizing the chokes does not cure the hard to start problem, it's still something that needs to be addressed
Aside, I notice your choke cable is a little rough looking..make sure there is not a wire strand preventing the proper movement of "SRZ"
 
Alright back at fighting this problem. The last 2 nights I've tried to start the car and the only way I can get it started is with starting fluid. I have adjusted the chokes to where they are the same. Once I get the car started and full choke the car still barely idles at 1000rpm. I go over to and put my hand in front of the intake on the carbs, almost cutting off circulation to the engine. Once the open is almost closed it revs up like a normal engine that is started using choke. What does this tell us? To much air and not enough gas?

The regional VTR is next week so I guess I'll ask around and have a can of starting fluid with me. It scares me a little bit knowing it is difficult to start while sitting in a garage let alone outside.

Poolboy, thanks for all the advice and following up on this thread.
 
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