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TR6 TR-6 Positive Rear Wheel Camber Causes

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Mark_Gibson

Mark_Gibson

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I just installed the Goodparts adjustable trailing arm brackets, so I know when I get the car aligned the shop can fix this positive camber problem. What I'm curious about is why it is so pronounced in the first place. During my frame off resto, I had the frame measured for any warping/twisting (none), put in all new trailing arm bushings, new stock springs, new original lever arm shocks, et, etc, and still the rear wheels sit pigeon toed in at the bottom, with the old brackets and now with these new ones. I put alot of miles on the car like this before I decided to take it apart, and aside from some uneven tire wear at the rear, it didn't bother anything else from what I could tell. I'm sure the handling wasn't the greatest, but I never raced it or drove it hard. Anyone else ever come across this? Thanks,

Mark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Are the tires out at the bottom (AWAY from the center line of the car) or are they in (toward the center line of the car) at the bottom? I think positive camber is out at the bottom. This does not answer your question about why it was taht way before but the changes, new springs etc., would help bring the tires in at the point they contact the road. May be that I am miss reading you message.
 
Positive camber is out the top. I've heard of "stock" springs being too tall and causing this problem. I would think that especially for the TR6 style of rear suspension a lot of positive camber would be dangerous.. or at the least a little wierd to drive on.

Richard's bracket will only adjust camber 1 degree +/- so it still won't correct a suspension that is totally outta wack.
 
Shannon,

I'm not sure how far out the suspension is, but it's a little perplexing when every bit of the rear suspension is new or rebuilt, and I still have the same problem I had before I started the restoration. I'm wondering if the springs might be the culprit. I'm going to call the Roadster factory tomorrow and talk with Dave, see if he has any ideas. I bought the "stock" springs from them.

Mark
 
Hello Mark,

do you still have your old springs to compare length?. The other thing you could check is the swinging arm brackets, I believe that they could be assembled upside down giving a higher pivot point and so giving positive camber. (definitely a bad thing for a TR6) My third thought, but unlikely, is that you put new spring seats and left the old ones in place.

Alec
 
Mark,

This is just a guess, but could the spring support thingy could be bent down; But I would still look at the springs first. I'll measure my original springs when I get home tonight (if I still have them)

-Shannon
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I just ordered another new set of rear springs from TRF. I'll take the old new ones out today and compare the length when I get the new, new ones! I installed the Good parts adjustable brackets and they are in as described in the instructions. No extra spring seats either, just one at top and one at the bottom. I think if the spring support tower was bent, it would have to be noticeable enought to cause this, but maybe I need to measure that as well. Thanks again for the advice. I'll keep you posted.

Mark
 
Check the old brackets. There several different types that can be switched as swapped and used to change the chamber. I had a bad negative problem and tried new springs and spacers ect. then I tried swapping bracket. The brackets have notches that identify them. Moss had a tech write up about them some time ago in the magazine.
 
Well, I fixed it!! The springs I had ordered from VB many months ago were a full 3/4 inch longer than the springs I just received and installed from the RF. The car sits pretty neutral camber now, and I'm sure the Good parts brackets will take care of any minor tweaking! Thanks for all the advice!!! I guess you can't always count on the parts you order being the "correct" ones for your particular application. Lesson learned.

Mark
 
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