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TR6 TR 6 Engine rebuild/freshen

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gbtr6

gbtr6

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Hi All,

I plan on a rebuild/freshen of my 6 motor. Some background:

About 15 years ago, I did a frame off complete rebuild of my 6. It came out fantastic, for an owner rebuild. I was more than pleased. The engine was rebuilt at that time as it had over 100,000 miles on it and was rumbling and tired. When rebuilt, I fly cut the head and decked the block so I get @ 9.5:1 compression. Its an early motor, '69 or '70 I think. I run HS-6's and dual exhaust, no header. Has an S-2 cam from BPNW. I also run Pertronix. Been real happy with it.

It has run great til last summer when it started pushing oil out the top. Did a compression test and #1 was zero. Rest were 120. Squirt of oil in #1 and it went up to 60. I figure rings, but could be holed piston? Anyway, I have @80,000 on it now, and feel like I should do a complete rebuild again instead of just fixing #1. I asked the same machine shop as last time what they would charge. I would bring a short block, head is good, and it would run $800- $1000 for disassembly, tanking, measuring, balancing and parts for rebuild freshen standard. Meaning no pistons or major items, just rings, bearings gaskets and the like. I would reassemble it.

I will replace the oil pump, clutch, and timing chain tensioner as well as these are wear items to me. May need to look at the cam and followers pending measurements. Could be relatively cheap insurance to just replace it now. I might get by on the clutch as I am easy on them and get 100,000 miles out of them. And that's an easy replace later if money is tight now.

Any other suggestions on this?

Perry
 
I am a bit afraid, but the **** thing still pulls pretty good, no smoke so I don't think it would be horrible.
 
Well, so far this project is a non-starter, literally. Went to get the TR on Friday, and I left the battery connected. I usually disconnect the negative lead. Dead as a door nail. Had it charged and then checked and it was bad. So, got a new one. Will go out and clean leads and re-attempt soon.
 
Yeah, I am frustrated. Wife asks why my cars don't work and hers do. My 67 Mustang is in need of a little work also. If anything, I can trailer the TR home and tear into it. I just need to get some things fixed.
 
Well, turns out the battery was bad, but still no start. The lights work, the electric fan works, but no starter. I cleaned the battery terminals before installing the battery. All the fuses look OK. I took the main wire off of the starter and cleaned it up a bit, and the smaller spade wire on top of the starter. I haven't had a chance to check the ground strap on the engine side. I am poor on electrical trouble. Where do I start to nail down the fault? It could be the switch. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Perry
 
Your car has a starter relay on the drivers side by the wiper motor. Try tapping gently on the outer case to see if the contacts are stuck.
 
Last edited:
If the starter does not respond when you turn the key to "START"..it's probably because of a situation unique to 74 cars.
Is that the case ? If so, I'll continue on with the probable solution.
 
poolboy said:
If the starter does not respond when you turn the key to "START"..it's probably because of a situation unique to 74 cars.
Is that the case ? If so, I'll continue on with the probable solution.
Click to expand...

Are you're talking about the seat belt interlock module? If you are, I forgot about that... I had that problem on my '73 and had to jumper the wire on the round connector.
Edit: I have a '73 BUT have '74 wiring setup
 

Yes, Elliot, according to the schematic only the 74 and 75 had the seatbelt buzzer pictured in the passenger side footwell, but if you had one in your 73 then it sounds like you know the problem it can create.
If Perry finds no power at the W/O wire on the starter relay when the key is twisted to "START" he should pull the plug off the buzzer and make a jumper connecting W/R to W/O sockets or do what they did in 75 and just cut and splice the W/O wire to the W/R wire
On the other hand, if he does have power in the W/O at the relay (key in START position), but not in the W/R at the relay, the problem is not in the buzzer, but probably in the relay.
 
Ken-
I have a '73 but used an inner body from a '74 and I used the '74 wiring harness. I know full well the problem since I had it when I finished up my car. It drove me crazy until I figured out the problem. The fix is pretty easy though.
 
Off topic for just a moment:
Ken- I read the article in the latest Moss magazine. That was a nice mention of you!
OK, back to the no start problem.
 
poolboy said:
If the starter does not respond when you turn the key to "START"..it's probably because of a situation unique to 74 cars. Is that the case ? If so, I'll continue on with the probable solution.
Click to expand...

I do have a 74. I remember a problem with the buzzer years ago. It always buzzed. So I disabled the buzzer by breaking it with a screwdriver. Never had an issue after that. Can you show me what wires to check and jump? The relay you mention by the wiper motor, can I get a picture of it? I may trailer it home as I can work on it more and much better in my garage.

My 67 Mustang started, but the timing is off as it didn't have any power and ran rough. Saving that for another day.

Perry
 
Thanks for the jumper thread. When I get my car home, I am going to take the engine out and bring it to the machine shop. While that is being done I wll clean up the engine compartment. Can I test the ignition with the engine out? You know, put a test gauge on the starter lead to see if I have voltage there when I turn the key? At least the starter circuit?

Thanks,
Perry
 
Haven't posted for a while. I have the engine back in, all hooked up and will start up and run in hopefully this weekend. My wife helped me install the transmission as my friend had a bad back and I had a heart cath a few days before and wasn't supposed to lift more than 10 lbs. She actually did a great job and even enjoyed it a bit. She also help re-install the bolts around the bellhousing. I told here I need to get a big Healey project for her and I to do. That didn't fly yet.

Perry
 
Forgot, I have another question. A number of years ago, I had some ignition/electrical problems and located the brown wire from the back of the alternator wasn't getting any voltage. Would that be because of the safety switch inside the footwell not working. I heard of the problems with that not allowing a car to start. I fixed the problem by running a jumper to give the coil power.

Perry
 
Perry,

The brown wires at the alternator should connect to the connector 'block' on the large red cable that connects the battery to the starter. If your wring harness is original you can make sure they are firmly connected.

Jeff
 
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