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TR4/4A TR-4A FI street engine on the dyno at JB Racing.
- Thread starter nissanite
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OP
nissanite
Senior Member
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Thanks All
The FI manifold was made for me at Kinsler. They make Indy car & other racing manifolds as well as complete fuel systems. It is 1 of 1.
The Haltech system came from Ludwig Motorsports. Chris has been brilliant. He answered all of my questions in the planning phase & never lost patience. The coils are from a LS1 Corvette. It is sequential injection & direct fire. Chris also did the tuning, once at JB Racing & again via the internet (very cool)
The addition to the timing cover holds the crank and home sensors. Home sensor read a magnet that was installed in the aluminum adjustable cam gear.
JB Racing made the liners from billet steel. to install the block was bored to round & liner permently installed with aircraft type product. they are now honed in place & are perfectly round.
The mixture was checked by 2 different sensors & were .1 apart at any time. The engine was held at 5000 with a 30 percent load. That was like towing a trailer up a mountain dragging a parachute. Will never be duplicated on the street.
The FI manifold was made for me at Kinsler. They make Indy car & other racing manifolds as well as complete fuel systems. It is 1 of 1.
The Haltech system came from Ludwig Motorsports. Chris has been brilliant. He answered all of my questions in the planning phase & never lost patience. The coils are from a LS1 Corvette. It is sequential injection & direct fire. Chris also did the tuning, once at JB Racing & again via the internet (very cool)
The addition to the timing cover holds the crank and home sensors. Home sensor read a magnet that was installed in the aluminum adjustable cam gear.
JB Racing made the liners from billet steel. to install the block was bored to round & liner permently installed with aircraft type product. they are now honed in place & are perfectly round.
The mixture was checked by 2 different sensors & were .1 apart at any time. The engine was held at 5000 with a 30 percent load. That was like towing a trailer up a mountain dragging a parachute. Will never be duplicated on the street.
OP
nissanite
Senior Member
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The goal of this engine was not power, but longevity. Power was a side effect. I wanted as much torque as possible not worrying about HP. Everything was prepped to the nth degree.
JB Racing has been building racing engines for over 30 years. Look at their website for their products. No one mentioned the ultra trick rear main seal. After building the engine with a new kit from the usual sources, it leaked. He custom mede the whole thing. after 2 days on the dyno - not a drop.
Nothing was spared from modification. Oil pressure even warm never dropped below 45. The bearings were coated. Crank renitrided & shot peened. assy was balanced.
The rods saved 7 oz per & the flywheel had 18 lbs removed. It will go in the chassis tomorrow.
JB Racing has been building racing engines for over 30 years. Look at their website for their products. No one mentioned the ultra trick rear main seal. After building the engine with a new kit from the usual sources, it leaked. He custom mede the whole thing. after 2 days on the dyno - not a drop.
Nothing was spared from modification. Oil pressure even warm never dropped below 45. The bearings were coated. Crank renitrided & shot peened. assy was balanced.
The rods saved 7 oz per & the flywheel had 18 lbs removed. It will go in the chassis tomorrow.
startech47
Jedi Knight
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How does the seal housing attach to the engine.
OP
nissanite
Senior Member
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that seal housing requires the flywheel bolted to crank. A locating sleeve is machined in both just larger & around the pilot bearing. Then the locating boss on the rear of the flywheel is machined off.
The new seal housing bolts to the original location. The block is slightly machined & matched to the seal housing.
After 4 hours running on the dyno, it is absolutly dry. To replace the seal if needed, all you do is remove the flywheel & take out the seal & install a new one.
Most of the things on this engine that were very old designs were updated. This is a 2011 Triumph engine if they were building it now.
My goal when this is done is to drive the wheels off of it the fix it & PUT THEM BACK ON.
The new seal housing bolts to the original location. The block is slightly machined & matched to the seal housing.
After 4 hours running on the dyno, it is absolutly dry. To replace the seal if needed, all you do is remove the flywheel & take out the seal & install a new one.
Most of the things on this engine that were very old designs were updated. This is a 2011 Triumph engine if they were building it now.
My goal when this is done is to drive the wheels off of it the fix it & PUT THEM BACK ON.
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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A very interesting project, and beautiful to see.
I noticed roller rockers, good for reliability, VERY strong looking pushrods, nice fasteners, grade 8 by the markings on the heads, narrow belt conversion, and the header tucked away so as not to overheat the alternator, and fitting for the O2 sensor on the collector. Nice details.
I am interested to see the crank does not appear knife edged, perhaps because you do not need high revs for torque?
I would not worry about a tube header glowing, pretty normal at high loads.
Whose software runs the system and how was it mapped?
Also interested in what fuel pump and pressure regulator you are using, if you don't mind answering questions!
Great job!
I noticed roller rockers, good for reliability, VERY strong looking pushrods, nice fasteners, grade 8 by the markings on the heads, narrow belt conversion, and the header tucked away so as not to overheat the alternator, and fitting for the O2 sensor on the collector. Nice details.
I am interested to see the crank does not appear knife edged, perhaps because you do not need high revs for torque?
I would not worry about a tube header glowing, pretty normal at high loads.
Whose software runs the system and how was it mapped?
Also interested in what fuel pump and pressure regulator you are using, if you don't mind answering questions!
Great job!
OP
nissanite
Senior Member
Offline
The system is a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 Sequential with direct fire coils. It was VE map tuned by Ludwig Motorsports. We ran rpm ranges at 1000 intervals, increasing load to 30% load. Then we mapped the timing to have higher advance off throttle. We will road tune once the car is drivable.
I am using a Walbro FI pump with an Aeromotive regulator set to 45 lbs. Runs pump 93 octane with 10 to 1 compression.
We had to move the O2 sensor because it was overheating. it is 2 feet downstream.
I am using a Walbro FI pump with an Aeromotive regulator set to 45 lbs. Runs pump 93 octane with 10 to 1 compression.
We had to move the O2 sensor because it was overheating. it is 2 feet downstream.
hondo402000
Darth Vader
Offline
be careful when you get it on the street, I just got a 57 in a 35 zone from punching the gas, barely got in second gear. But office my throttle linkage got hung up!
Hondo
Hondo
HerronScott
Darth Vader
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Brosky said:
Now if I could just get my cars to the UK and get permission to use the Top Gear runway...
Scott
HerronScott
Darth Vader
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I'm sure we have some but the Top Gear track looks like so much fun. Doesn't everyone want a chance to take on Gambon Corner? 
Scott
Scott
My tr4 street motor was done by Prather racing.We went more for HP than torque.The engine peaked at 154hp @6800rpm with 143ft of torque.This was done mostly in the head work with VW/Pinto valves,major porting and re-shaping the chamber.The low end was Carrillo /vanolia forged 87 with totalseal rings.the crank was deep nitrited polished and balanced.The cam was by integeral cams, stage 3.Stock carbs and regular gas since the compression was only at 9.0 to 1.
The dyno runs proved that the stock generator should NEVER be used at 7000rpm it shelled out the comutator brushes.... its been on the street for 7 years and driven to the nationals twice.
MD(mad dog)
The dyno runs proved that the stock generator should NEVER be used at 7000rpm it shelled out the comutator brushes.... its been on the street for 7 years and driven to the nationals twice.
MD(mad dog)
Monkeywrench
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Is that 6800rpm a typo? :shocked: 5800 sounds about right for that cam and power level.
A 2200cc engine making peak power at 6800rpm is making over 200bhp, without a question.
A 2200cc engine making peak power at 6800rpm is making over 200bhp, without a question.