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TR2/3/3A TR-3A Dash Cap Refinishing
- Thread starter Bob_Burt
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NickMorgan
Jedi Knight
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From what I remember you have to unscrew two screws that are under the cap towards either end and the grab handle will have to come off along with the vent pull knob. After you have also removed the tonneau pegs it should pull off. Be quite careful as it is only make of aluminium and is a bit flimsy. You should be able to carefully remove the old leather and recover it. I did one in vinyl and it was fairly easy. I suspect that leather is a bit more tricky as it doesn't stetch so easily.
martx-5
Yoda
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Besides the lift the dot pegs, there are additional screws at each side, and you have to remove the grab handle and vent knob, etc. Be careful pulling the capping off, it's thin aluminium. Which also means you will have to be careful pulling the old stuff off, and putting the new stuff on.
It's not a difficult job, but to get a good result, you have to take your time and think about how to make the cuts so it folds onto the back without wrinkling or laying over itself.
I did all of the re-capping, the seats and the dash. The capping that goes around the cockpit was the easiest. When I get home tonight, I'll post a few pics, but if you look at the backside when you get the piece off, you will see how it was done.
It's not a difficult job, but to get a good result, you have to take your time and think about how to make the cuts so it folds onto the back without wrinkling or laying over itself.
I did all of the re-capping, the seats and the dash. The capping that goes around the cockpit was the easiest. When I get home tonight, I'll post a few pics, but if you look at the backside when you get the piece off, you will see how it was done.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I'm a klutz with upholstery, but I did my own TR3A dash rail many years ago and it came out really nice. As I recall, there are two different grades of vinyl, you want the 'stretchy' kind which is different than the reinforced stuff for seats, etc. Leather (which some cars had) would be harder, I suspect.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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NickMorgan said:
Mine was steel though the (3) cappings around the rear of the cockpit were aluminum/aluminium.
TR3Driver said:
I'm under the impression that they all would have been leather originally, on the dash cap, door tops and that dog leg piece... then vinyl around the back. I too am uphostery-challenged but found the leather very easy to work with. Maybe not as flexible as vinyl but tough so you can tug at it, put it off and try again, etc. On pieces that need more stretch soaking the leather in water & the use of mild heat will help.
AweMan
Jedi Knight
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I concour with all of the above, My dash cap on Ts 12909 is steel. I have recovered it twice, once with "Stretchy" vinyl and once with leather. The vinyl is easy to work with, where as the leather is a bit tougher to stretch. I started from the middle and worked towards the ends, glueing, {contact cement} tugging, stretching, snipping, clamping with clothespins as I progressed. This job is fairly simple and you should at least give it a go before deciding to turn it over to the pros.
P.S. don`t Snip out the vent hole until last, and all of the glue has dried. Leave enough material around the vent hole so that the estanchion can hold it from shrinking. {A hole just big enough to get the vent pull rod through is all you need.}
Hope this helps
P.S. don`t Snip out the vent hole until last, and all of the glue has dried. Leave enough material around the vent hole so that the estanchion can hold it from shrinking. {A hole just big enough to get the vent pull rod through is all you need.}
Hope this helps
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I think that was only with the "leather facings" option. At any rate, what I took off of TS39781LO looked original and was definitely man-made. Several other cars, including TS13571L, have been leather though.Geo Hahn said:
Leather seems so impractical in an open car anyway ... one of my previous TRs had been stored outdoors and the leather seat upholstery had shrunk to the size and consistency of a dinner plate. Looked to be in perfect condition otherwise /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
martx-5
Yoda
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TR3driver, you are absolutely right about leather being impractible for a car such as the TR3 that has just about zero weather protection.
But, after I'm done with this resto I'm working on, I doubt this car will ever see rain. Well, maybe if I get caught somewhere, but it certainly won't be often. Because of that, my whole interior is being done in leather...I just love the stuff. It's got a feel, look and smell that is just great. I even covered the dash in the stuff. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif
But, after I'm done with this resto I'm working on, I doubt this car will ever see rain. Well, maybe if I get caught somewhere, but it certainly won't be often. Because of that, my whole interior is being done in leather...I just love the stuff. It's got a feel, look and smell that is just great. I even covered the dash in the stuff. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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That's correct for a TR3A. I don't recall the change point offhand, but there was a fairly early change to move the speedo so the passenger/navigator could read it easier when doing TSD rallies. Some of the books still show the earlier arrangement, though.NutmegCT said:
martx-5
Yoda
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NutmegCT said:
Thank you for the compliment. The dash was the hardest piece to do. Patience is in order when doing that job. The tach and speedo were just stuffed in there with no thought as to where they should go. I figured I'd deal with the proper gauge locations when I start assembling the car. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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I think the early cars -- possibly into the TR3A range -- had that 'reversed' oritentation. You might check the change point as I vaguely recall it was somewhere in 1958.
Oops, I only read the last post. I see Randall has this covered. In a quick look at Piggott & the TRA guideline I did not find the change point.
Oops, I only read the last post. I see Randall has this covered. In a quick look at Piggott & the TRA guideline I did not find the change point.
MGTF1250Dave
Jedi Knight
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Aloha Art,
That is nice work on the dash covering. The area near the arch for the steering column is done very nicely and I think is probably the most difficult part. I think your lay out is probably correct. The hole under the dash for the trip odometer reset is on the left.
That is nice work on the dash covering. The area near the arch for the steering column is done very nicely and I think is probably the most difficult part. I think your lay out is probably correct. The hole under the dash for the trip odometer reset is on the left.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
MGTF1250Dave said:
If you're saying that the speedo is in the correct spot because that hole is over there -- well on my car at least both the left and right positions had that hole (in the sheet metal pressing) for the speedo reset so the unit could go in either spot. You just make a hole in the covering based on where you're putting the speedo. Clever boys in Coventry.
I have to agree that Art did a fabulous finger-tip busting job on that arch for the column. My cover came in a the Moss kit and had a stitched arrangement that made that area a cinch -- but what Art did looks much better and couldn't have been easy.
martx-5
Yoda
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Well, I just looked at my TS23677L dash, and it has only one hole for the trip reset knob. I guess that's why I stuck the speedo on the left.
The arch for the steering column was the hardest part of the dash. Yes, I did have sore fingers, but I got those from stretching the leather on the other parts of the dash as well. I had to do a lot of thinking about how to proceed with the arch. I had the rest of the dash all glued up, and saved the best for last. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif I took careful measurements and decided that there was just enough material to wrap the sides of the arch. It would've been nice to have some more, but...The first slit is a do or die. It has to be up the middle, but more importantly, it can't go too high, or you will have a slit in the top part of the arch. That's where all the stretching takes place. I enlisted an appropriate sized socket and started massaging it into position. When I got close to the top, I clamped the socket against the top of the arch and kept it there for several hours. Then I contact glued it up, again with the socket and clamp holding it in position overnight. Eight months later it's still nice and tight. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
EDIT: BTW, when I first got this car some 25 years ago, the fuel gauge was not original. It had a blue background and red needle. I bought the gauge that is now in the dash from a guy in Conneticut. It supposedly is from a TR3. But, if you look at it carefully (see my previous post with the dashboard attachment) it doesn't quite look like a TR3 fuel gauge. It has 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, F marked on it. and not evenly spaced. Anybody know what it's from?? For now, I'll use it, as it works fine. But if I ever get the right gauge, I would sell this one, but need to know what it fits. If you need a larger, better picture, I can do that.
Thanks
The arch for the steering column was the hardest part of the dash. Yes, I did have sore fingers, but I got those from stretching the leather on the other parts of the dash as well. I had to do a lot of thinking about how to proceed with the arch. I had the rest of the dash all glued up, and saved the best for last. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif I took careful measurements and decided that there was just enough material to wrap the sides of the arch. It would've been nice to have some more, but...The first slit is a do or die. It has to be up the middle, but more importantly, it can't go too high, or you will have a slit in the top part of the arch. That's where all the stretching takes place. I enlisted an appropriate sized socket and started massaging it into position. When I got close to the top, I clamped the socket against the top of the arch and kept it there for several hours. Then I contact glued it up, again with the socket and clamp holding it in position overnight. Eight months later it's still nice and tight. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
EDIT: BTW, when I first got this car some 25 years ago, the fuel gauge was not original. It had a blue background and red needle. I bought the gauge that is now in the dash from a guy in Conneticut. It supposedly is from a TR3. But, if you look at it carefully (see my previous post with the dashboard attachment) it doesn't quite look like a TR3 fuel gauge. It has 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, F marked on it. and not evenly spaced. Anybody know what it's from?? For now, I'll use it, as it works fine. But if I ever get the right gauge, I would sell this one, but need to know what it fits. If you need a larger, better picture, I can do that.
Thanks